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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Motorino: Great chef, shame about the restaurant

Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆

The prefix “extra” means beyond, or outside. As in extracurricular (beyond the curriculum), extra-terrestrial (outside the earth) or extravaganza (beyond the, er, vaganza). By definition, life cannot be extraordinary: most of it must be usual, normal. Humdrum. Restaurants fit this: the majority are serviceable, decent, places that pass the time but do not blow the mind. London is full of them. And full of good, hard-working chefs, but not extraordinary ones.

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