Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Not to review one place by talking about another, but in the Amex desert of suburban Islington is a restaurant so improbable it might have opened by mistake. Homeowners in these parts subscribe to the Mindful Chef and understand hot Pilates; the announcement of Goodbye Horses came with a picture of the chefs on horseback, pulling poses better suited to postcard smut or an indie album cover. Did they lose their way trying to make it to Clapton?
