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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Mambow: Malaysian masterpiece undeniably worth the schlep

Oh goody, I didn’t think, Clapton. Just the one sodding hour on the Overground. But in the spirit of my New Year’s resolution to explore more, I thought I’d courageously venture all the way to the far-flung reaches of, er, Zone 2. All right, all right. I’m working on it.

Not a selfless schlep but a selfish one. In the sprint to Christmas, I heard Mambow’s name so often I’d begun wondering if I was suffering from an unusually specific form of tinnitus. Chef Abby Lee has gossip on her side. Her modern Malaysian, with the Chinese influence prominent, is a certified hit. At least down the pub it is.

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