Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Lupa: the she-wolf that suckled Rome’s founding twins, Romulus and Remus, nourishing them after their abandonment. A drawing of her prowls across the menu here, presumably to indicate that this is a Roman-style restaurant, rather than to suggest that the founders are big on Mussolini (the dictator once posted Lupa statues to several US cities). “Roman comfort food” is the offer, the owners playing to the strengths of talented head chef Naz Hassan, raised in Italy. Hassan made his name at Pidgin, but cooked too at Bibi and Clipstone; as training wheels go, these are monster truck-sized.
