Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Line dancing? It was this or paying £50 for three lamb chops in the new place on top of the Hilton. No thanks. Besides, critics race to review first and I reckon Jay Rayner likes to cut a rug. So my fiancée Twiggy gamely agreed — gamely in the sense she said, “I don’t have a choice, do I?” — and off we scampered, her having readied herself with roper heels, Western denim and gingham, and me having prepared by… not shaving. It can’t really be the thought that counts.
