Review at a glance: ★★☆☆☆
I didn’t see this one coming. Claude Bosi? New Parisian bistro? Close to home? No point in reviewing: five stars, gold-plated and spit-shined. Surely? Surely. And the thing is, stringing together 700-odd words of unadulterated praise gets tiring after a while; it’s a bit like grinning for a photo while your darling Ma fumbles with her iPhone. So I went in as a punter, off the clock — with Bosi sweetly sending over two flutes of Champagne, which I did not turn away (come on, would you?) — expecting a night of near lascivious indulgence. Treat me like a barrel, I told Twiggy, fill me to the brim and roll me home.
