
Review at a glance: ★★★★☆
Discretion and ostentation play at different ends of the pitch, though both draw crowds. In Berkeley Square last week a Maserati drove by sporting a “baby on board” sticker, which is either a half decent gag, a kink taken too far, or a literal sign the driver has their priorities in disarray. But Berkeley Square is built on flash. I don’t suppose the driver knows about Ikeda.