Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
David Ellis

David Ellis reviews Hawthorn: Revolutionary? Absolutely not — but everywhere needs a local like this

Not just for locals: Hawthorn’s dining room bears a striking resemblance to its predessesor, the Glasshouse

(Picture: Adrian Lourie )

Not that I ended up in Kew by mistake — it’s been an age since I accidentally fell asleep on a tube, literally weeks — but as we walked into Hawthorn, my evidently spoilt friend interrupted a frankly dazzling story, waved an insistent finger for silence and said: “Do you realise we’re in zone four?”

And sure, you might think it’s pretty shoddy for him to accept a night out on my expenses and kick up a fuss, but I heard him out. Can a central type know they’re in Surrey and enjoy supper at the same time? Is it possible? Have you tried?

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.