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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

David Ellis On the Sauce at Bar Lina: Soho basement bar is pure sex-in-the-Sixties with an Italian twist

Time is a train with no doors and no stations to stop at. It follows that finding parity with the past is basically a pointless endeavour — but given rather a lot of what I do is basically a pointless endeavour, I’ve decided to forgive myself in this instance. We’re back a decade and you’re playing Guess The Bill in a five star place (always the recommended behaviour). What’s the damage for a drink? And today — same question? Points if you had about £14 for then; gold stars for £25 or so now.

This 80 per cent-ish increase is bad if you’re picking the tab up for you alone; it’s sweat-inducing if you’re out with expectant others. But time is a train wi— yes, right, let’s move on. Still, to walk past the tinkling tins of amaretti and down into the dark red fuzz of Bar Lina brings to mind a different era. It’s there in the pricing (things start at £9, lots hover about £12), and more obviously in the look.

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