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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Rachel Cooke

Cut yourself some slack and stop cooking for an impossible fantasy existence

Delia Smith when she was the Mirror magazine’s cookery writer in 1970.
‘Delia Smith loved the cake I panic-baked for her when I interviewed her last year. It hadn’t risen properly.’ The cookery writer when she worked at the Mirror magazine in 1970. Photograph: Mirrorpix/Getty Images

I was tired and a bit overworked, and that’s when it happened: the lid fell off the jar at the wrong moment, and all was lost. Or was it? For a long, despondent minute, I considered the disaster before me. In my best Le Creuset pan on the top of the oven were the sausages I was turning into a pasta sauce for dinner, and about 10 times the amount of chilli flakes I’d intended to add. Oh no! Thoughts of takeaway pizza floated into my mind. But I hated to waste both the sausages and my efforts up to this point, so I decided to plough on regardless. Some like it hot, and we two are among them. How bad could it be, really?

The answer is: not bad at all. I might not have fed it to guests, but we both ended up having seconds. It was … memorable, I guess, and later on, as I loaded the dishwasher and worried vaguely about what I might cook tomorrow in this, the busiest and craziest of weeks, I got to thinking about kindness in the kitchen – kindness to myself, in this instance. Don’t worry. I’m not about to turn into some gruesome self-help guru. All I mean is that, sometimes, I should give myself a break. In fact, we all should. If perfection is elusive, equally, seeming catastrophe is rarely that. Most dishes can be salvaged. Nearly everything is edible, in extremis. Delia Smith – Delia bloody Smith! – loved the cake I panic-baked for her when I interviewed her last year. It hadn’t risen properly. As I took it out of my bag, it resembled nothing so much as a house brick wrapped in foil. But as I heard later – she said this to her audience during an event at Conway Hall in London, and some of them were kind enough to email me afterwards – she and Michael, her husband, devoured every last cardamom-scented crumb.

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