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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Crying about Guinness? Have a Murphy's — alternative stouts and where to find them

There is apparently a Guinness shortage. “Over the past month, we have seen exceptional consumer demand for Guinness in Great Britain,” said a spokesman for owner Diageo. “We have maximised supply and we are working proactively with our customers to manage the distribution to trade as efficiently as possible.”

Stunt? Crisis? Who’s to say. I’d rather not divulge this information but I am probably obliged to, professionally. And so may I point you in the direction of the Ramble Inn, Tooting, a true independent pub where the Guinness remains plentiful and is also only a fiver a pint. Tir Na Nog in Wandsworth has a few barrels left. And The Devonshire, of course. We’ll stop talking about the place when it becomes irrelevant, which will be never.

In fact, quite a few pubs are doing just fine with Guinnesssee our list. But the brouhaha presents an opportunity to highlight other brands which ought to be enjoyed with greater zeal in Britain. Murphy’s is the obvious. Its Cork compatriot Beamish (both are owned by Heineken these days) appears unavailable in London and so, sadly, cannot feature here. There are whispers of a push in 2025.

Below are stouts and porters that aren’t called Guinness. Murphy’s is a must and London Black is worth trying, if you haven’t before. The others are up to you.

(Josh Barrie)

Murphy’s

Murphy’s is a beautiful stout from Cork, southern Ireland. Some say it is smoother and creamier than Guinness. I shan’t comment. What I will say is that it’s probably more akin to what British people thought Guinness was before everyone started drinking it and learned that, actually, Guinness is truly designed for the sesh. It is not a bloody meal. Both are great, by the way.

The only stumbling block is that Murphy’s is lacking in London and by comparison few pubs serve it on draught. There are an increasing number, though (stay tuned for a proper piece on Murphy’s next year). It’s quite a South London thing at the moment:

The Montpelier, Peckham — pretty much always on

The Lord Nelson, Southwark — never leaves the taps. Landlord Simon Ward refuses to stock Guinness. He has his reasons, I just can’t print them

Cafe Mondo, Peckham — a hot new bar and restaurant in Peckham that has Murphy’s as standard

The Railway, Streatham — often on, but no guarantee

Skehan’s, Peckham — a proper Irish pub serving Murphy’s as recently as this month

The Lamb, Holloway — another top Irish pub that switched to Murphy’s from Guinness a week or so ago, blaming the shortage

Auld Shillelagh, Stoke Newington — worth trying, but no promises (go anyway)

The Boston Arms, Tufnell Park — a rowdy pub on a busy crossroads in a good part of north London. Quite often available

Faltering Fullback, Finsbury Park — wildly popular pub (lots of young media types, if that’s your thing; it isn’t ours) that has apparently put it on

Dublin Castle, Camden — has been on this month

Nancy Spain's, Shoreditch — a relatively new pub in Shoreditch (with a second on the way nearby) that serves Murphy’s over Guinness

White Horse, Peckham — on most of the time

Dog & Bell, Deptford — usually available

The Hope, Fitzrovia — usually available

Mannions, Tottenham — Guinness here really but I cannot in all good consciousness talk about Irish stout without referencing this place. Such a wonderful pub

London Black

Another alternative might be Anspach & Hobday’s London Black, which is a porter rather than a stout but might well assuage a thirst for a dark beer. The brewery, based in deep South London, has a handy online map showing every pub that currently stocks it. See here: there are dozens.

Sam Smith’s own-brand

The unconventional northern brewery Samuel Smith’s — no phones, no swearing, no music... no vibes? — makes its own stout, as it does all drinks. The Standard’s food critic dubbed it “ropey”. I’ve not ever tried it but feel free. There are more than 20 Sam Smith’s pubs in London, including the Jon Snow in Soho and the Chandos near Trafalgar Square.

(Camden Stout)

Camden Stout

Camden Brewery has been making its own stout for years now. It is mostly available by can, but its flagship beer hall in Kentish Town is known to have had it available for draught in the past.

Gibney’s

Gibney’s is poured at a bar of the same name below Richard Corrigan’s restaurant Daffodil Mulligan in Old Street. Described by the brand as a “silky smooth, traditional Irish stout”, it is made by Rye River Brewing Co. in Celbridge, County Kildare. Worth a go.

BrewDog

The controversial brewery BrewDog makes its own stout, called Black Heart. We pitted it against Guinness not so long ago. It is available in BrewDog pubs across London.

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