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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Lucy Gillmore

Croft originals: the chefs reviving Isle of Mull’s food scene

Carla Lamont serves food from her Bruach Mhor croft and seafood caught by her husband Jonny at her restaurant Ninth Wave.
Carla Lamont serves food grown on her Bruach Mhor croft alongside seafood caught by her husband Jonny at her restaurant Ninth Wave Photograph: PR

‘Edible means it won’t kill you – it doesn’t mean it tastes good. This, however, does taste good,” says chef Carla Lamont as she snips off a piece of orpine, a native sedum, in her herb garden. It’s crisp and juicy like a granny smith but tastes more like cucumber. “It’s said to ward off strange people and lightning strikes; but I like strange people.”

We’re on a three-hectare (seven-acre) coastal croft on the Hebridean island of Mull. Armed with scissors, Carla is giving me a kitchen garden tour and culinary masterclass – she was a quarter-finalist in Masterchef: The Professionals a few years back. Sweet cicely can be swapped for star anise, she tells me. Lemon verbena she uses in scallop ceviche.

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