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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Country pub of the week: the Dolphin, Thorpeness

Glorious restaurant post: the Dolphin - (Press handout)

The esteemable George Pell, owner of the Suffolk in Aldeburgh, has bought a pub. We expect you’ll want to head that way with determined regularity in the summer. But until Pell’s place opens, try the Dolphin Inn in Thorpeness, a village north of Aldeburgh once owned by the Ogilvie family, which made a fortune in railways in the early 1800s. Most of the land was sold off in the 1970s, but descendent Hamish Ogilvie still owns the Meare, an artificial boating lake.

The pub makes for a glorious resting post after a morning’s boating among the herons and caters to all by way of good ales and classics like fish and chips. The best thing about it is the kitchen garden, idyllic in fine weather. Share a bottle of inoffensive white wine and dive into a crayfish sandwich with lemon mayo and rocket. Countryside harmony.

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