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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
David Ellis

Country pub of the week: the Crooked Billet, Stoke Row — the original gastropub and perhaps the best

Paul Clerehugh is one of those chefs famous not just to the locals in the cheese shops, but in the restaurant world generally, partly as the Billet can stake a claim as the country’s first gastropub, besting the Eagle in Farringdon by two years.

It’s partly his name that has made a Shires legend of The Crooked Billet, though it probably helps that Kate Winslet had her first wedding here, George Harrison was a regular and Marco Pierre White swings by.

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