Country diary: Rowdy or charming, there’s no one way to wassail

‘Morris dancing, a dragon and a local character called Mr Double Danger the 2nd.’ Wellington wassail at Swain’s Lane orchard. Photograph: Dan Langworthy-Smith

Old apple tree, we wassail thee,
And hope that thou wilt bear
Hatfuls, capfuls and three bushel bagfuls
And a little heap under the stairs!

We are standing around a little crab apple tree by the side of Wiveliscombe village hall, singing our hearts out between the car park and the high street. It’s Old Twelfth Night, and in the orchards and gardens of the West Country, people are banging pots, swilling cider, hanging bits of toast in trees and yelling “wassail!”.