Maybe it’s the invitation of the slowly lengthening days, but at this time of year I crave a long view. And here, on the approach to the ringfort of Grianán of Aileach, I have it. As the late afternoon sun squints over the fort’s high walls, it’s easy to understand why early medieval monarchs cherished this summit.
I watch my shadow loping across the heath before my gaze plunges to the Inch Levels reserve, where flocks of wintering whooper swans and greylag geese speckle the flooded fields. I stop for a moment, lingering over the sky’s perfect reflection in the reserve’s brackish lagoon, with Lough Swilly beyond. Not far from here to Ireland’s northernmost edge and the Atlantic Ocean.