The stained glass window of St Kew’s church, with a tamed bear at the saint’s feet, is temporarily out of sight, penned in by a jumble of scaffolding. On a chilly hilltop a few miles to the south, St Mabyn’s tower features weathered carvings of heraldic beasts, including a muzzled bear pointing its snout northwards; inside, bears feature on crests of the Prideaux, Barratt and Godolphin families. Midwinter, when Cornwall is relatively free of visitors’ traffic, is a time to visit historic sites and speculate on legends, Arthurian myths and associated early reverence for the pole star encircled by the constellation of the Great Bear.
Secluded St Winnow, further south alongside the tidal River Fowey, is first on our itinerary, reached along narrow, winding lanes. The church is dedicated to a Celtic missionary who is depicted with a handheld grindstone – this holy man neglected the task of milling the monks’ flour in favour of more prayer time.
Upstream, beyond Lostwithiel – once Cornwall’s busiest port – the tower of St Bryvyta in Lanlivery is a landmark for miles around. Carved symbols on corbels of the tower include two lions clutching a stylised “tree of life”, their protruding tongues symbolising a powerful force against evil. Another strange image is of crowned figures holding a young head with flowing locks, set between a severed giant’s head and the flaming sun, maybe harking back to ancient beliefs and respect for seasonal renewal.
East, in the Grade I-listed St Marnarch’s church in Lanreath, the Norman font is intricately carved with zigzags, palmettes and plaits and, on remnants of 17th-century benches, rearing bears link to the Gryles and Bere families. Beneath roof bosses carved with stars, the Tudor rood screen retains remnants of painted saints and, lurking at its base, a primitive greenman sprouts foliage representing fertile earth.
Back home in St Dominic, cold winds swirl frost-dried beech leaves into drifts outside the church porch. During a sleety shower, a steep rainbow shines against dark clouds masking Kit Hill. Within the tower, overlooking the looped-up bell ropes, St Dominica and her brother Indract (carrying a Tamar salmon) continue their peaceful gaze from the west-facing window.
• Under the Changing Skies: The Best of the Guardian’s Country Diary, 2018-2024 is published by Guardian Faber; order at guardianbookshop.com and get a 15% discount
