Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) has solidified its position as more than just a prelude to the major fashion shows in the fashion capitals of the world. This highly anticipated event has become a favorite among Instagram influencers, fashion veterans, and buyers alike. The styles showcased on the catwalks in the Danish capital often set the trends that will dominate wish lists and social media feeds in the coming months.
Scandinavian style has long been associated with minimalism, but Copenhagen's fashion scene has evolved into a unique blend of practical playfulness, while still maintaining a certain restraint and avoiding gimmicks. Over the years, brands like Baum und Pferdgarten, Stine Goya, and Ganni have come to define the aesthetic associations with the city.
This season, Ganni, one of the most prominent Danish brands, chose to celebrate its tenth anniversary in a unique way. Instead of staging a traditional catwalk show, the brand took a step back from the spotlight and decided to showcase emerging talent. Partnering with Copenhagen Fashion Week's talent program, Ganni curated an exhibition called 'Future, Talent, Fabrics,' featuring seven up-and-coming Danish artists and designers. This collaboration allowed these rising stars to present their work alongside Ganni's own pieces.
Two promising talents featured in both Ganni's exhibition and the Copenhagen catwalks were Nicklas Skovgaard and Alectra Rothschild. For Rothschild's eponymous brand Alectra Rothschild/Masculina, this was a memorable debut on the catwalk. As a Central Saint Martins graduate, Rothschild's provocative collection drew inspiration from Y2K trends and featured zero-waste draped dresses that effortlessly embraced different body shapes. The diverse and largely transgender cast of models added further depth to the collection. Rothschild's personal journey of transition served as the underlying inspiration for her collection, aptly named 'Rebirth Carry.' It explores the transformative experiences that many transgender individuals undergo during their transition process.
In an industry that craves poetic design and theatricality, Nicklas Skovgaard's collection resonates. Skovgaard combines a soft corporate silhouette with a flair for drama and elements of the Tudor period. His flowing and flouncy pieces captured attention, but Skovgaard took his presentation to another level with choreography and an 80s beat. Models, resembling dolls in some ways, interacted with the audience, posing, dancing, and even playing with fruits. The combination of performance and fashion show created an electrifying atmosphere reminiscent of fashion greats like John Galliano.
Another standout show was presented by Paolina Russo, along with Lucile Guilmard and performance artist Esben Weile Kjær. Building on the success of their previous show in Copenhagen, they returned with a show inspired by Stonehenge. Giant monolithic sculptures served as the backdrop while models danced around in the brand's signature knitwear. Runes, incorporated into the clothes and set design, added a folkloristic yet contemporary ambiance, evoking a sense of nomadism that permeated the collection.
While these three young brands infused an energy reminiscent of the vibrant London fashion scene, they were exceptions in Copenhagen. In many ways, commerce tends to hold sway in the industry here. However, the Danish capital proves that commerciality does not equate to monotony. Cult label Saks Potts presented a refined collection that paid homage to the festival style popularized by model Kate Moss in the 2010s. Rotate, on the other hand, showcased their penchant for party-ready attire with shiny, see-through gowns that are perfect for any invitation.
Despite the occasional celebratory vibes, business-minded designs dominated many fashion narratives during Copenhagen Fashion Week. Tailored coats, two-piece suits, stiff shirts, and ties were prevalent on the runways, for both men and women. The Garment played with proportions by shortening sleeves and jacket lengths, pairing oversized, pointed shirt collars with knitwear. Mfpen injected a hint of grunge into standard office wear.
Copenhagen Fashion Week was a captivating display of the city's fashion prowess. From emerging talents to established brands, the event showcased a range of styles that exemplified the Danish capital's fusion of practicality, playfulness, and commercial appeal. As the fashion world eagerly awaits the next fashion week, Copenhagen has proven once again that it deserves its place on the international fashion stage.
