When the Duchess of Sussex’s lifestyle brand As Ever launched last week, the £14 raspberry spread in “keepsake packaging” – AKA a jam jar – sold out within half an hour. If the price seems a little eye-watering for something you could easily make at home, there is one thing Meghan got right: our appetite for condiments – from preserves to chilli oils and hot sauces – is bottomless. With the continuing rise of little treat culture, condiments that hover around the £10 mark have become the new “lipstick effect”.
Delli, an online retailer for independent brands, has doubled its condiment sales in the past year, with bestsellers including a £10 “croissant butter” and a £6.99 Malaysian Chinese chilli oil. Waitrose reported an 18% rise in condiment sales in the last month, with the Ottolenghi range of green harissa paste (£5) and miso pesto (£4) both up 13%. Marks & Spencer is echoing this uptick in premium condiments, with sales of truffle mayo (£3.25 as opposed to £1.50 for their classic mayo) up 10% on last year. Now a range of “swicy” (sweet and spicy) condiments including gochujang mayo, hot honey sauce and peach and jalapeno relish are in development.
