Beijing: Outside China, Moutai has little resonance. Within it, the brand is a behemoth that bestrides banquets and presides over the gift-giving economy. China's most prestigious baijiu, a fiery spirit distilled from sorghum, is a token of status, instrument of political patronage, and barometer of the country's economic fortunes.
Like Champagne, Moutai carries a geographical indication (GI): only spirit made in a protected zone of about 15 sq km in Maotai town, using Chishui river water and matured for years in clay jars, may carry the name. ('Moutai' is the older romanisation of 'Maotai'.) That exclusivity has helped make it the world's most valuable liquor company, worth about $250 bn.
