Climat, 8th Floor, Blackfriars House, Manchester M3 2JA (0161 710 2885). Snacks £4-£7.50, larger plates £7.50-£24, sharing plates £30-£70, desserts £5.50-£8.50, wines from £29
No one will ever write romantic poetry about the entrance to Climat in Manchester. Words like “blunt” and “austere” are never likely to make hearts tremble. As if Climat should care. Only restaurants dependent on passing trade need worry about their lip-glossed looks, and right now nobody is coming here accidentally. Climat, open for only three weeks the night I visit, is every kind of hot. Manchester is a big bustling city, but faced by a new venture that everyone agrees is doing all the good things in all the right ways, it behaves like the sweetest kind of village. The good news passes swiftly from digital ear to digital ear.
