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Chicago Sun-Times
Chicago Sun-Times
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Neil Steinberg

Chicago’s candy crown slips with Mars exit

Unless you’re standing at the right spot on Michigan Avenue, you can miss the fact that there are two Wrigley buildings, with a sky bridge between them. | Neil Steinberg/Sun-Times

Jelly beans grow like pearls, around a grain of sugar instead of sand, while tumbling in drums that look like cement mixers.

I know this from seeing it happen at the Ferrara candy factory in Forest Park, a rare glimpse inside one of Chicago’s secretive, dwindling world of candy companies. When I heard we’re losing another, that Mars Wrigley — the two merged in 2016 — is closing its West Side plant, dubbed the most beautiful factory in America when it opened in 1928, with its Spanish-style architecture and red-tiled roof, I must admit my first thought was not that Chicago is losing its grip on the “capital of the candy universe” brag, nor the 280 jobs lost. But a pouty, “Now I’ll never get to see the place.”

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