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The Guardian - US
The Guardian - US
Environment
Maria C. Hunt in Oakland

Chef Crystal Wahpepah on the power of Indigenous cuisine: ‘Native foods are overlooked’

A triptych of photos shows scenes from Wahpepah's Kitchen. In the first, are two dishes, one a plate of greens adorned with berries, the other a salad with roasted fiddleheads. In the middle panel is Crystal Wahpepah smiling in a gray chef's coat standing in front of a mural. On the right are bright yellow shelves holding jars of seeds and grains.
Chef Crystal Wahpepah is the owner of Wahpepah’s Kitchen in Oakland, California, a restaurant with a mission to introduce people to Indigenous food. Photograph: Gabriela Hasbun/The Guardian

Out on the sunny patio at Wahpepah’s Kitchen, sizzling plates of bison and deer make their way down a table filled with Native American educators from across the country. The game meat joins other indigenous dishes on the kitchen’s menu, such as leafy salads topped with striped red corn and blue corn mush sweetened with berries and maple.

Chef Crystal Wahpepah, the owner of Wahpepah’s Kitchen and a member of the Kickapoo tribe, is proud to see the gathering. Food is medicine in the Native American tradition, and her Oakland restaurant is all about bringing together Indigenous producers and ingredients – sustainable meats, fresh berries, heirloom corn and herbs – to help people heal.

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