
Review at a glance: ★★★★★
Lunch out during the week is a favourite hobby, though I never fully understand the room. Who are these people? What do they do, where do they come from? This isn’t France: no Brit took a guillotine to the aristos in the name of a state-mandated prix fixe. Don’t most people have a proper job? I’m told the bankers are too busy these days for the three-martini shebang, and surely not every restaurant can survive on flirt-fests between hacks and PRs. Or perhaps they can. Whatever; lunch is back.