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She’s dark, nimble and looks absolutely stunning. But when her piercing eyes meet mine, I don’t know whether to laugh or scream.
I’ve often wondered what it’s like to come face to face with one of the most fearsome predators known to humans. Would I remain calm, keep my heartbeat steady and make no sudden movements as the marine experts suggest?
Nope, my arms and flippers flail wildly like an overexcited baby as I grope for the sea bed, sending dozens of colourful tropical fish diving back into their coral lairs.
I clamber back onto the most idyllic of Maldivian beaches and wave my snorkel and mask at the only other person in sight, an immaculately turned-out member of the Ozen Reserve Bolifushi staff.
“There’s a sh-sh shark down here,” I stammer. “Is it friendly? Should I be worried?”
“No shark. Fish feeding 5.30 tonight,” he replies with a smile.
I’ve stumbled upon the only member of the resort’s friendly personnel who doesn’t speak perfect English, so I scurry back to my sunbed and Google ‘sharks in the Maldives’ on my iPad.
‘Blacktip reef sharks live in the shallow waters and are very shy,’ it says. ‘But can scare the living daylights out of unsuspecting tourists,’ it should have added.
Admittedly, the shark is probably no more than a few feet long and I’m soon back in the warm, crystal clear waters, happily pointing out all the fish characters from Finding Nemo and Finding Dory to my wife, Carole.
We’re back in this fragile, tropical wonderland 11 years after celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary and are instantly reminded why the Maldives remains one of the most aspirational and much-loved holiday destinations in the world.
Close to 100,000 British tourists were among the 1.8 million who visited last year – almost double the number since our last trip, despite the devastating impact of the global pandemic. And with the new Male airport terminal finally expected to open by Christmas 2024 after a six-year delay, the numbers could fly.
This time we’re spending a few nights in the upmarket Ozen resorts of Bolifushi and Maadhoo in the South Male Atoll among a refreshingly cosmopolitan group of visitors drawn from all corners of the globe.
Last year, Bolifushi was named the best all-inclusive resort in the world in the annual Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards, and it’s easy to see why.
After an 11-hour flight via Doha, we board a luxury catamaran with a young Italian family at Male airport and make a serene 30-minute journey to the resort, where we are greeted with traditional Boduberu drumming, the blowing of a conch shell and have handcrafted palm leaf necklaces placed around our necks.
Paradise has many different definitions but Garden of Eden seems the most appropriate for this tiny spec of gorgeousness. With free champagne, spirits and gastronomic delights readily available via the resort’s all-encompassing reserve plan, there are enough temptations to test the resolve of the most puritanical Adam and Eve guests.
Scents of fragrant frangipani and jasmine flowers fill the warm air, while beautiful pink polyantha roses (the national flower of the islands), sea hibiscus and orchids clamour for attention among the lush tropical vegetation.
Manicured sandy paths in the shape of a figure of eight lead off to Earth Pool Villas – favoured by the British – while, at the north end of the island, wooden pathways lead to huge overwater villas with infinity pools and death-defying water slides.
Our Hiyani (personal butler), Samir, whisks us around the island on his golfcart, proudly showing off the array of international restaurants and bars, the enticing spa complex, highly-rated Kuda Koli Kids Klub, with its own private beach area, and watersports centre.
He brings snorkelling gear to our villa and suggests heading for the coral jetties and beneath the overwater spa huts to catch the best of the dazzling marine life.
Samir then books us into the ‘Elements of Nature’ spa for an instant detox massage and orders a floating breakfast, with lashings of fruits and freshly baked pastries, in which to indulge in our private pool and on the enormous outdoor bed. It is, indeed, a world away from our own humble lifestyle.
That evening we make the few steps to the other side of the island and join several excited children and their parents for the daily fish-feeding show.
Huge sting rays, black trevallies and large eels are already swarming around in the shallow waters in anticipation. But when the fishfeeder arrives bang on time and starts throwing titbits into the water, all hell breaks loose.
The children squeal with delight as fish of all shapes and sizes gorge on the food. And it’s not long before my old friend Feargal Sharkey (that’s the nickname I’ve coined for my new predator pal) makes an appearance, stealthily cruising in the shallows with graceful menace. It makes for some memorable videos in which to share back home.
Other five-star resorts are moving into the area and from our stretch of beach, we can see on the horizon water villas being constructed for the Mandarin Oriental’s first Maldives resort, due to open in 2025.
Booze may be on tap 24-7 at both Ozen resorts, but there’s not a hint of trouble – in fact, for a tiny island that’s more than 70% full, it feels as though we have the run of the place.
Food not surprisingly features heavily in the Tripadvisor reviews with melt-in-your-mouth sushi a highlight.
After sundowners at the Ozar bar in front of a mesmerising sunset, we head for fish restaurant Origin3 and feast on scallops and lobster, washed down with chilled Chablis.
Champagne moments come thick and fast but some of our favourite meals are served up at the second of the Ozen resorts, a 40-minute speedboat ride in the opposite direction from Male.
Maadhoo may lack the grandeur and attention to detail of its sibling, and a change in weather dampens the spirits, but the resort is no less welcoming.
Although we tend to shy away from spicy foods, the Tradition IndoCeyon restaurant’s Sri Lankan and Indian dishes, packed with flavours, elicits the most oohs and aahs.
The intimate Lonu restaurant on the waterfront, with typical fish-based Maldivian dishes of tuna and prawns paired with organic rose wines and mocktails, also hits the spot.
But the highlight is undoubtedly dining at the underwater M6M (Minus Six Metres) restaurant, close to our overwater villa, where Michelin-style food and service are matched by the unique, aquarium-style setting.
With so many fish on show, we can’t bring ourselves to eat the bonito and toothfish. Instead, my wife opts for the vegan dishes while I order chicken cordon bleu and tenderloin steak paired with fruity New Zealand wines, and we are not disappointed.
A huge electric storm adds to the drama of the occasion, with lightning flashes sending the fish darting in all directions. And, just as dessert is being served, Feargal Sharkey shows up. Now, if only I had my snorkel gear with me…
How to plan your trip
An all-inclusive six-night stay at Ozen Life Maadhoo and Ozen Reserve Bolifushi starts from £3,750 per person (two sharing), including boat transfers. Flights extra. Visit theozencollection.com.
