Calvin Klein’s first female creative director finds succour in a fictional New York

Alexander Skarsgård, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington and Grace Burns were all at the Calvin Klein collection show at New York fashion week. Photograph: Jamie McCarthy/Getty Images

Calvin Klein’s first female creative director, Veronica Leoni, presented her debut collection on Friday, watched on by Kate Moss – the brand’s most famous face during the 1990s, when its billboard ads ruled the zeitgeist – Calvin Klein himself, 82, and Christy Turlington.

The brand had a lot riding on Friday’s show, its first catwalk presentation for six and a half years, and the highlight of a New York fashion week schedule that has been light on big names as American fashion struggles to compete with European brands owned by the French conglomerates LVMH and Kering.