Chef Rahul Kirtikar is on a mission to redefine Indian cuisine in Newcastle by returning to his roots.
He opened Calamari Kitchen & Bar on Hunter Street in April, having fallen in love with the city while holidaying here with his wife Unnati.
To truly appreciate Rahul's menu, you must first understand its origins.
"Every dish on the menu has a story, where it came from, how it culminated into something so unique," he told Food & Wine.
"I am recreating lost dishes from my childhood, my Pathare Prabhu community, who were the first inhabitants of Mumbai, called Bombay back then. Food lovers from the beginning of time, this community has the most uncommon and out-of-the-box dishes."
The Pathare Prabhu community is known for closely guarding its recipes and cooking techniques as well as its unique blend of roasted spices.
"I started cooking by watching my father cook. My mother always made homely treats but my father was the chef at home," Rahul said.
"He comes from a hospitality background and still makes brilliant food back in India.
"I could do a poulet coq au vin at the age of 14. I studied hospitality and did a major in food production. I loved to cook European cuisine (I did that for 10 years) but you can never forget your roots - hence this menu."
Rahul's menu is a blend of common Indian dishes and what he describes as "elevated and authentic" dishes. Each spice is "blended with the right sauce and the right protein".
"I have kept dishes like the lamb shank rogan josh, some from the coast of Goa, some from Calcutta and from the era of the British Raaj, but I have also added products which are uncommon and are lost recipes of India, like the prawn coco curry known as kalvan curry in our community," he said.
"The spice powder we use for this recipe, which is from my great grandmother, gets shipped here from India.
"We use this in prawn cashew curry, fish cashew curry, indie shellfish broth and pineapple cashew curry (traditionally known as pineapple sambhare in our community) as well as our favourite entree, crunchy calamari and prawns."
Seafood dominates the recipes of Rahul's childhood and is a feature of his menu at Calamari Kitchen & Bar. Aunty's Curry, for example, is influenced by the recipes of the fisherwomen local to India's western coast (Goa fish, prawns, coconut, red chilies, butternut fruit and coconut milk); the indie shellfish broth (khadkhadle, shell fish-braised broth, garlic, chilli and house-ground spice powder); the red chilli-braised calamari with an onion and sherry vinegar sauce; and the crunchy calamari or prawns marinated in garlic, house spice powder and lemon.
There's also a street food section of the menu (think crispy okra chips, pani puri puff balls and chicken lollipops), mains, share plate options and dessert.
"We at Calamari are continuously evolving and trying to give elevated but authentic Indian cuisine to Newcastle," Rahul said.
"Some simple facts: butter chicken should be smokey and not sweet. A lamb rogan josh can be done as four-hour slow-cooked lamb shanks in rogan josh sauce. We get true flavours of fish curry by using butternut fruit, for instance, kokum. Our Railway Goat Curry is made with tamarind as it was during the British Raj in India. Our lamb cutlets are cooked on a hot plate marinated with turmeric, star anise and nutmeg.
"We maintain the depth of Indian cuisine with subtle as well as loud flavours."
Rahul says whisky pairs well with Indian curries, and he hopes to host a whisky and curry night at Calamari Kitchen & Bar soon. The restaurant, at 551D Hunter Street, Newcastle, is open daily from 11.30am to 3pm, and 5pm to 9.30pm.
