Café Kitty, London: ‘Right in the heart of things’ – restaurant review

Putting on a performance: the dining room at Café Kitty, with its dirty salmon pink walls and globe lights. Photograph: Sophia Evans/The Observer

Café Kitty, Underbelly Boulevard, 6 Walker’s Court, London W1F 0BT (020 3772 3922; cafekitty.co.uk). Small plates £8-£15, steak £24 per person, dessert £6.50-£8, wines from £30

Outside Café Kitty the lights are twinkling. It’s nothing to do with Christmas. They belong to the Mood Sex Shop on Walker’s Court in London’s Soho. LEDs alternating blue and red spell out the words “Fetish”, “Femdom”, “Spanking” and “Bondage”. It’s quite the menu and while I don’t judge, it’s not quite what I’m after right now. I prefer the sound of the menu in front of me, with its hot promise of devilled eggs and buffalo chicken with stilton dressing. That’s the kind of spanking I really fancy.