BULGARI AND REFIK ANADOL PRESENT SERPENTI METAMORPHOSIS AT THE SAATCHI GALLERY
Walking through London’s Saatchi Gallery, I am submerged into a technicolored universe. There’s an energy — visceral and enigmatic— much like the venomous viper which bends and coils to catch its prey. This is Serpenti Metamorphosis, Bulgari’s latest offering.
After the success of last year’s debut in Milan at Piazza Duomo, Bulgari, one of the world’s oldest and most acclaimed luxury jewellers, has brought a sparkling new exhibition to the city.
The exhibition chronicles the jeweller’s long, rich history, which traces back to 1884 when Greek silversmith, Sotirios Vulgarise founded the Italian house. With a deep commitment to craftsmanship, Vulgarise ushered in a new collection of jewels including the Serpenti— from which the exhibit takes its name.
The double-coiled snake is one of the brand’s most iconic symbols and signifies strength, rebirth and wisdom. Popularised by celebrity starlets Elizabeth Taylor, who first donned the emerald green cobra whilst filming Cleopatra in 1962 alongside Richard Burton, Naomi Campbell and Lisa of BLACKPINK. From cobalt couture-classics to sleek, sensual signatures, it has changed its skin over the past 80 years— all of which are presented inside the gleaning walls of the King’s Road gallery.
Upon entering, an AI installation, designed by Turkish-American new media artist Refik Anadol immediently grabs my attention. I am told it is built from an algorithm founded on over 200 million images, unlike the real-time observational approach of an Attenborough documentary, it is a sumptuous spectacle to behold. As I watch a serpent undulate on-screen, it appears to me that Bulgari are keen to hop on the techy-gallery trend as more and more venues incorporate digital features within their physical spaces.
The exhibition undoubtedly succeeds in merging the physical and digital world together but it is their preservation of history which I find to be most memorable. The iconic jeweller has recently introduced three contemporary bejewelled designs as part of an exclusive Serpenti selection which sit alongside heritage pieces. Dripping in gold and embellished with juicy big jems, horology designs date back from the 1940s to present day.
With a commitment to craftsmanship and the natural world in which we inhabit, this exhibition really couldn’t come at a better time. Bulgari takes a continued focus on man’s demands with our precious, ever-changing planet.
