This article was originally published during British Pie Week (March 3-11), when the Wolseley City put on a special dish, pie and mash. We are republishing it online for National Pie and Mash Week (May 10-16).
London’s queen of pie and mash, Emma Harrington, is already there when I arrive at The Wolseley City, little sister to the original, the purveyor of breakfasts to the rich and famous. The fourth generation owner of Manze’s has travelled up from Crystal Palace to try an upmarket take on the Cockney classic, a £24.50 version of what her family business sells for little over a fiver.
