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Bristol Post
Bristol Post
Entertainment
Madeleine Bourne

Bristol needs to support Wapping Wharf now more than ever

Wapping Wharf is shrouded in impermanence - but the area is home to some of Bristol's best independent eateries, cafes and shops that make up the lifeblood of the city. The businesses are encased in impermanent shipping cargo containers - somewhat of a novelty for people visiting the harbourside area for the first time.

It's a unique area of the city near to the M Shed museum, and many locals and tourists venture past the main front end of the harbour, or across the Gaol Ferry Bridge from South Bristol, to pay Wapping Wharf a visit. However, Goal Ferry Bridge has now shut this week (August 22) for six-nine months for urgent repair works, and as a result Wapping Wharf has lost a daily footfall of 7,000 people who wander through from Bedminster and the rest of South Bristol.

It's one of a range of blows the hospitality venues at Wapping Wharf have faced in recent months. Covid hit independents across Bristol hard, plans to knock down the impermanent shipping containers to rehouse the businesses then became concrete, the heatwaves in July and August saw the boiling containers have to shut up shop for days, and now the cost of living predicts a costly autumn and winter. And many of the shops and restaurants have already seen a sharp decrease in customers just this week alone.

Read more: Your memories of Bristol Zoo Gardens before it closes its doors for good in September

Do the people of Bristol need to support Wapping Wharf more now than ever before? It certainly seems that way.

We spoke to staff at the cargo container businesses on Thursday (August 25) as they geared up for an August Bank Holiday that may be quieter than usual. Rosie and Saskia are two staff members at Loki Poke, the healthy takeaway with outside tables offering colourful poke bowls, and have definitely noticed a drop in customers since the Gaol Ferry Bridge closed on Monday (August 22) this week.

The interiors at Loki Poke, Wapping Wharf (Madeleine Bourne)

Rosie said, "I think people tend to come out for the day and stumble upon Wapping Wharf on their way through to the harbour, so the shutting of the Gaol Ferry Bridge will have a massive impact on us. Our sales have been definitely down since the bridge closed this week."

Saskia told Bristol Live, "This place is getting more recognition now, the longer we're here, and there are a lot of regulars and locals that'll hopefully keep coming even though the bridge is closed. However, we get a lot of customers from those who stroll through to the harbour and spot us, so it's likely they won't come anymore."

Without a permanent bricks and mortar venue as of yet, and based in a metal shipping container, this means Loki Poke had to close during the heatwave earlier this summer. "We're very weather-dependent," said Georgie, "but we now have an expensive air-con so we can stay open in the warmer weather!"

Business at Loki Poke, although adored by many locals, can flow in peaks and troughs. Saskia said, "It's quite hard to sometimes predict how busy this place will be.

"Sometimes there'll be a rainy Monday that'll be absolutely slammed and we won't be able to quite work out why!" Whilst home to many independent restaurants such as Cargo Cantina and Pizzarova, Wapping Wharf is also home to independent shops such as bookstore, Bookhaus.

A hugely Instagrammable treasure trove of all the latest trendy reads, as well as an events space for talks and performances, Bookhaus is tucked away behind the likes of Woky Ko and Pigsty in the far corner of Wapping Wharf. Bristol Live spoke to staff, Nayya and Jack, to uncover how both the cost of living crisis and the Gaol Ferry Bridge closure has impacted the bookstore.

Outside Bookhaus at Wapping Wharf (Madeleine Bourne)
Inside Bookhaus at Wapping Wharf (Madeleine Bourne)

Nayya has noticed how quiet it's been around Wapping Wharf since Monday's (August 22) bridge closure. She said, "I have noticed it's a lot quieter around here.

"I went into the coffee shop yesterday and I know they've really felt it this week. We are anticipating a decrease in customers as a result."

Jack said, "There are thousands less people around here every day now." Nayya has also noticed a change in consumer behaviours since the cost of living crisis revealed itself.

She told Bristol Live, "People are worrying about paying their bills. Are you really going to be coming out to eat, buying nice plants or nice books from Wapping Wharf as much?"

Jack has recognised a purchase from Bookhaus is a considered one. He said, "I think we're not a just 'pop in as you walk past' place in the same way a lot of these cafes and restaurants are.

"People actively choose to come to the bookstore to hunt for a specific title." But being a considered purchase is maybe why we should support these independents now more than ever.

When we do have the chance to spend, we can ensure our money is spent wisely. We can choose to support the Bristol businesses that need our money the most, instead of heading straight for a chain out of ease or habit.

"Wapping Wharf is an area of small luxuries, rather than necessities. Business will go here first, regardless of whether people can easily get here or not as a result of the bridge closure," Jack said.

Bookhaus hosts events, with many upcoming including talks with stunning writers such as Ottessa Moshfegh. It's been the bookstore's first birthday recently, Nayya said, "so it would be really nice to continue to operate and have a second and third birthday, too."

Finally, we spoke to Ben, head chef at award-winning burger bar, Squeezed. We spoke about the impact the cost of living crisis is having on the tiny restaurant housed in one of the shipping containers at Wapping Wharf.

Outside Squeezed at Wapping Wharf (Madeleine Bourne)
The interiors at Squeezed, Wapping Wharf (Madeleine Bourne)

Squeezed has been a favourite for both Bristolians and food critics since it opened in August 2017, and has won countless awards since at ceremonies such as the National Burger Awards. However, when we visited Squeezed ahead of the August Bank Holiday weekend, it was decidedly quiet inside, with the chefs and staff seated at the booths usually occupied with hungry customers.

Head chef, Ben, can see the uncertainty surrounding the cost of living crisis starting to impact consumer habits at Wapping Wharf. He said, "People are thinking about what to do with their pound. I know, personally, I'm trying to save a bit at the moment.

"People are wanting to be a bit more cautious. At Wapping Wharf, whether that will impact more affordable food choices like us, Pigsty and Woky Ko, or whether it's going to affect higher-end restaurants like Tare and Box-E as they're more of an expensive experience, we just don't know yet."

Ben and his team welcome the plans to get rid of the shipping container venues Wapping Wharf is known for. He said, "We're very happy with the big move to change it up.

"The pictures we've seen so far of the vision for the area are absolutely beautiful. I think a lot of consideration has been taken to preserve the views of the existing architecture in the area, and although we adore Wapping Wharf, for those of us who've been there for a little while now, like Squeezed, we're looking forward, finally, to a permanent bricks and mortar venue.

"The area is looking a little tired now - and it's in need of an update. We think Wapping Wharf has a great future."

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