In the early morning, near a billabong dotted with pink lilies, sisters Evonne Munuyngu and Mary Dhalapany are collecting pandanus leaves for weaving. It’s a very quiet place called Mungbirri, about 20 minutes’ drive north of the tiny town of Ramingining in eastern Arnhem Land.
The day is already very warm and the humid air is still. Earlier, as the sun came up, we passed a waterhole festooned with bright yellow lilies at Yathalamara. Both places are astonishingly beautiful and, we have been warned, full of crocodiles.
