There is a game people like to play, and it goes like this. Potatoes or bread? Cheese or chocolate? Around the table late at night, I usually refuse to answer. Why should I have to choose? But push me, and in the end, I’ll always pick bread over potatoes, and cheese over chocolate – and for the same reason.
If food is culture, it’s also alchemy, and never is that particular magic more apparent than in the hands of the baker and the cheesemaker. Put the two together, and in a single mouthful, you may be transported to a near-heavenly realm: the apotheosis of all that is straightforwardly good and healthful in life.
