The excesses of December are a fading memory, but the wind and the cold and the dark remain. Without the twinkle of fairy lights to assuage winter’s grimness, I turn to comfort foods, and few things nourish like a bowl of fragrant lentils inspired by dhansak, one of my favourite Indian curry dishes that’s defined by its gentle spicing and a sauce thickened with red lentils. My favourite squash varieties are crown prince and kabocha, but you could use butternut instead.