
Surely I’m not the only traveller who, when driving around the USA, spends most of the time staring out the car window on the lookout for cool, old motels – bonus points for an impressive sign.
Whizzing along the PCH through California’s Central Coast on a wet, grey November early evening years ago, I’ll never forget the first time I spotted the Madonna Inn in San Luis Obispo, its unmistakable flickering Barbie-pink neon sign towering above the highway against the San Luis Obispo mountains. “We have to turn around,” I announced to my now husband with anxious enthusiasm. “Now!”