Adaptable slaws for summer tables
Slaws are things of beauty, and such an important category of the salad world. They’re super-flexible, whether you’re feeling something creamy or lighter and brighter, but all slaws require a “healthy combination of dressing and crunch”, says Melanie Brown, chef/restaurateur at the Laundry in Brixton, south London. One such dressing is, of course, a classic mayonnaise, but Brown mixes things up with the addition of brown butter (for which butter is heated until the water evaporates and the milk solids caramelise): “It introduces a richness, complexity and nuttiness that I love.”
For a welcome bit of texture, chef Ana Ortiz deploys pumpkin seeds in her slaw dressing. “Toast them, then blend with spring onion, garlic, oil, salt and a little lemon juice,” the co-founder of Fire Made in the West Country advises. Then toss with grated carrot or squash: “That goes really well on the side of lamb chops or barbecued vegetables.” Apple cider vinegar is another fine match for a cooling carrot slaw. Riaz Phillips, author of East Winds, combines a tablespoon each of vinegar and melted coconut oil with two teaspoons of caster sugar, then tosses that in a bowl with a grated large carrot, a third of a white cabbage (also grated) and a third of a sliced red bell pepper: “If you like a creamier slaw, add three tablespoons of mayo, too.”
And that’s the real joy of slaws, Brown says – they are almost endlessly adaptable: “You have so many options when it comes to the vegetables. I’m a big fan of traditional cabbage and carrot, but I might also add charred corn for complexity or fresh broad beans [when their time comes].” Broccoli is another winner when tossed in a simple vinaigrette – “perhaps with some preserved lemon,” Brown suggests - as is pak choi dressed with a miso, mirin, rice wine and vegetable oil. “Always add loads of fresh herbs, such as coriander or chives, as well,” she says. Spoon on the side of a schnitzel, kiev or, perhaps, caramelised pork.
Keep the fruit bowl in mind, too, Ortiz says. “Apple with beetroot, carrot and chopped coriander is an especially good one.” She’d dress that with apple cider vinegar, a little olive oil and salt, with a little sugar to balance the acidity. “We have so many apples here in Somerset, so that’s useful!” Apple also works a treat with cabbage kimchi; Judy Joo, founder of Seoul Bird in London, tosses the two with julienned cucumber, salt and a dressing of mayonnaise (kewpie, for preference), apple or rice vinegar, mustard and a pinch of salt.
Another fruity little number comes from Guardian food columnist Ravinder Bhogal in the form of green mango slaw. Pound a couple of roughly chopped, red bird’s eye chillies, a chopped garlic clove and two tablespoons of soft light brown sugar to a paste, then loosen with water. Stir in the juice of a lime, two tablespoons of fish sauce and a tablespoon of rice-wine vinegar, then fold in green mango cut into matchsticks, sliced shallot and torn herbs (Thai basil, mint, coriander). Stuff into tofu sandos for a satisfying sandwich of contrasts.
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