The struggle for separate Telangana was not just about jobs and water. It was also about its culture, its history, its art, and its food. Food in Hyderabad meant biryani, haleem, tomato cut, khichidi khatta and a host of other delicacies. But it was during the long struggle for the State that the food from the region got a platform. One of the big events during the struggle was a Telangana Food Festival hosted in March 2007 that jolted the palate of Hyderabad — Vanta varpu where food cooked publicly was also part of the agitation.
Nine years later, food from Telangana is mainstream. But drive out of Hyderabad and you get a full range of food from Telangana that is a smorgasbord of flavours, textures, and presentation that don’t fit a label. One of the earthy delights is dining with local people. In Siddipet, fresh toddy is served with spicy chicken curry. There is an option to have Susheela. Sush what, you ask? A unique dish enjoyed at kallu compounds (toddy joints), Susheela is nothing but puffed rice (muri/murmura), served with chicken curry. Eating rice is too routine and to add a crunch to the bite while sipping toddy, locals replace it with puffed rice. This Susheela is not to be confused with the traditional Maharashtrian Susheela, also made with puffed rice.
Then there’s toddy. Locally known as kallu, it is the fresh sap from palm trees with a slight intoxicating effect. It is a popular drink during summer. When consumed within a few hours of being tapped, it is sweet. In Telangana, drinking toddy in summer is like a tradition. In many houses that procure the drink, guests are usually offered toddy and not tea. Chicken cooked with toddy called kallu chicken is must-have dish for visitors and gourmands to the region.
