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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tim Anderson

Best thing I ever ate? My first In-N-Out burger in LA

In-N-Out Burger Sign at Sunset in Los Angeles, California.
‘I came to associate In-N-Out with the incomparable joy of being young, dumb and free’. The In-N-Out Burger at Sunset in Los Angeles, California. Photograph: Nick Fox/Alamy

They say you never forget your first time, but for most of us, this doesn’t apply to cheeseburgers. We can’t really remember our first cheeseburger, because we start eating them at such an early age, before the memory centres of our brains are fully formed. In fact, in Wisconsin (“America’s dairyland”) babies are traditionally weaned on a fortifying diet of cheeseburgers, bratwurst and fondue, along with little sips of lager, just to make sure we acquire the taste.

But while I may not be able to recall the particular details of my very first cheeseburger, the sense-memories of them are embedded deep within my subconscious. The perfect flavour-chord of ketchup, mustard and pickles on molten cheese and juicy beef occupies the same psychological space as the peppery cinnamon-and-clove aroma of my father’s Old Spice and the warmth of my mother’s hug. More than mere memories, these are encoded messages: comfort comes in the form of hugs, spicy aftershave, and cheeseburgers.

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