Rioja is a name with which most will be at least dimly familiar, thanks to the extent to which it defines Spain’s contributions to wine.
The term adorns many popular wines from household-name makers, but many don’t know what to look for – or even what a Rioja actually is.
As expounded by Max Whisker, wine expert and General Manager at Latitude Wine and Liquor Merchant, “Rioja is, for most people, the go-to wine from the Iberian Peninsula, and rightly so. It provides us with great value wine that offers us a diverse and transparent range of styles thanks to the region’s expertise in wine production and its famous ageing categories.”
Just as Bordeaux are produced in Bordeaux, and Champagnes in the French region of the same name, Riojas are the product of a very special area in Spain – and a protected category of wine as a result. Whisker explains: “this ancient wine producing area (the first D.O. in Spain) is a familiar choice for consumers, but climate change and fresh headed, young producers are gradually introducing new styles into the region, and before long may see the further re-writings of the D.O.’s stipulations.”
D.O. stands for denominación de origen, and refers to an appellation scheme which was folded into Europe’s wider PDO scheme in 2016. Rioja wines enjoy the highest level of categorisation within Spain’s D.O. system, being denominación de origen calificada or D.O.Ca. wines. La Rioja’s import as a wine region, though, predates any formal national categorisations.
The rioja region
But what exactly do we mean by the Rioja region? La Rioja is an autonomous territory in and of itself, north-west of Zaragoza and encompassing around 3,000 square miles – but the vineyards that enjoy D.O.Ca. recognition also cross over beyond La Rioja’s bounds, into Navarra territory and the Alava region of Basque Country. As a wine region, Rioja can be sub-divided into three distinct sub-regions: Rioja Oriental, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Alta.
Rioja Oriental describes the south-easterly bulk of the region, where hotter and drier conditions make for stronger and drier wines. Rioja Alavesa describes the northern tip of the region, tipping over into Basque Country and fuller-bodied wines.
Finally, Rioja Alta describes Rioja’s westerly reaches, and brighter wines with lighter palates. Most Rioja wines blend grapes from across these regions to avail of their distinct profiles, but there are also many examples of Riojas that showcase the best of a region – or even of a single estate.
Best riojas to buy at a glance
- Best overall: Glorioso Rioja Reserva 2017 - £14, Ocado
- Best for savouring before dinner: Artelan Rioja Reserva Edicion Limitada 2018 - £26.99, Naked Wines
- Best for a light start: Artelan Rioja Tempranillo 2021 - £12.99, Naked Wines
- Best for charcuterie companionship: M&S Duque de Miralta Rioja Reserva 2018 - £13, Ocado
- Best for white wine drinkers: Cosme Palacio White Reserva 2018 - £22.99, Vino Fandango
- Best for aged complexity at a great price: M&S Duque de Miralta Rioja Gran Reserva 2016 - £16, Ocado
- Best for tapas: Cosme Palacio Vino De Laguardia Crianza 2018 - £22, Reserve Wines
- Best for sub-£10 dinner-table drinking: Ramon Bilbao Crianza - £9.75, Tesco
- Best for drinking with Sunday roast: Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 2016 - £12.79, The Bottle Club
- Best for spicing up your life: Ramon Bilbao Viñedos de Altura 2019 - £16.72, Decantalo
The vibrant vinicultural pursuits across this region have brought us some truly remarkable wines, and today’s market is as exciting as ever.
Here are just ten of the best you can get your hands on, from accessible essentials to full-bodied beauties and beyond.Shop now
Glorioso Rioja Reserva 2017
Best: overall
Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos is a Spanish wine producer with two centuries of pedigree, though its arguably more notable modern achievements relate to sustainability – the producer has been recognised as the most sustainable in Spain. Amongst its roster is the sub-brand Bodegas Palacio, which itself contains the Glorioso range. Glorioso wines have been produced in Rioja Alavesa for over a century, and the Rioja Reserva 2017 is a particularly stunning example of their pedigree.
This is a fantastically deep red for a Reserva, with a deep nose to boot. There’s fruit and spice in equal measure, between redcurrant, blackberry, cinnamon and mace; behind this, there’s an evocation of dark chocolate, vying for attention against the extremely welcome surprise that is raw coffee cherry. This complexity is carried through when sipped, and carried gainfully by its 14 per cent volume.
It has a pleasingly thick mouthfeel, that coats the palate and rewards with successive quaffs. The old vine Tempranillo grapes are providing plenty of pepper and berry-fruits, though tartness and acidity take precedence over fruit. The finish is long and brilliant: raspberry compote; cranberry sauce; xocolatl. This robust red will sit well against most robust dishes, but is particularly well-served alongside rich tomato-rich plates.
Buy now £14.00, Ocado
Artelan Rioja Reserva Edicion Limitada 2018
Best for: savouring before dinner
Bodega Bideona’s terroir-led explorations of what good Rioja can be have also borne fruit in the form of a Reserva. The Artelan Rioja Reserva Edicion Limitada 2018 meets its required credentials through ageing in traditional barriques before resting in bottles (incidentally, of which there are little more than 10,000).
The Reserva 2018 is much fuller-bodied on the nose than its 2021 counterpart, with big, thick jammy sweetness by the spoonful wafting over spiced hot chocolate and even a slight suggestion of cedar. Bright berries and charred winter spices combine to create something much rounder than the sum of its parts.
It is an exceedingly smooth drink, with a balanced body that gives way to a lightly acidic finish. It is grand, even elegant in construction, with great depth and a subtle interplay of different flavours. The oak ageing has mellowed everything, and made this a genuine shame to finish.
Its smoothness deserves to be acknowledged alone, without the competition of other flavours; drink this before dinner, and savour every sip.
Buy now £26.99, Naked Wines
Artelan Rioja Tempranillo 2021
Best for: a light start
Bodega Bideona is a wine producer committed to terroir. Its vineyards are all within the Rioja Alavesa region, allowing each wine to showcase something of its vibrant viticulture – something the Artelan Rioja Tempranillo 2021 does with maximalist elegance.
This Artelan 2021 is a lot of fun. For one, it is quite bright in spite of its relative youth, sporting a sugary-red luminosity when held to light. Where many Riojas lean into fruit in one way or another, this one presents very little on the nose; instead, you are met with a hefty dollop of rich chocolate ganache, with flecks of fig and blueberry there to reward the more fastidious of sniffers.
On the palate, the 2021 is pleasingly viscous, and spicy to boot. There’s sharpness and hair, thanks to its surprising tannin content and the not-overwhelmingly alcoholic tang. However, there is also an overriding softness, that makes each mouthful especially smooth.
This Tempranillo, then, is a great cooking companion; a pre-dinner sipper for the chef, and a fab wine for enjoying meaty starters with.
Buy now £12.99, Naked Wines
M&S Collection Duque de Miralta Rioja Reserva 2018
Best for: charcuterie companionship
M&S has carved out a name for itself as a purveyor of quality goods, having built a formidable range of exemplary products under its M&S Collection umbrella. Naturally, its wine imports are of especial import, so to speak – as evidenced by two particularly strong entrants from El Coto de Rioja in Álava, one of which is a 2018 Reserva.
The Duque de Miralta Reserva 2018 pours bright, but sits dark in the glass. Though fragrant, it is delightfully easy on the nose, evoking dark chocolate and dried fruits straight away. This decadent trail mix gives way to compote notes, and hints at a developed sweetness in the process.
At first taste, though, this sweetness is not so easy to find. This is to its credit, as more complex spiced notes come to the front. It is pleasingly tart, with a little tannic bitterness behind it that is also quite welcome; as that tartness mellows, the sweetness appears, and lingers on the tongue with dark fruits and cacao. This developed, all-trades mellowness is thanks both to the blending of grapes from all three regions and to the French oak casks in which the Reserva spends two years.
In all, this is an enjoyably complex Rioja that doesn’t alienate with its fuller-bodied flavour profile. It would naturally stand well against stronger spiced and meaty dishes, but its thinner tartness would also make it a fine charcuterie companion.
Buy now £13.00, Ocado
Cosme Palacio White Reserva 2018
Best for: white-wine drinkers
Cosme Palacio is another from the Entrecanales Domecq e Hijos family, this time situated in Laguardia; it has been producing Alavesan Riojas since the late 19th century. White Riojas are by no means rare, but are nonetheless forgotten in favour of more robust reds from the region; the Cosme Palacio White Reserva 2018 is proof positive that white Riojas are not to be forgotten, and a powerful vote for the excellence possible in aging white wines.
The Cosme Palacio White Reserva 2018 is incredibly soft on the nose. It is well-balanced and subtle, but with much to discover within – for example, a vague hint of buttercream, a by-product of six months this white spent in French oak barrels (which also accounts for its lightly-bronzed straw colour). For fruits, there are slight notes of peach, plum and apricot as well as grape-skin – but all in absurdly good balance.
These fruits are subtle but present on the tongue, too, as well as a touch of elderflower. Balance is very much the word here, as initial sharpness dissipates with astonishing quickness. Behind it is a long and moreish finish, at once floral and creamy. This is nothing short of a delight to drink on its own, but would be an amazing pairing with seafood – especially zesty starters.
Buy now £22.99, Vino Fandango
M&S Collection Duque de Miralta Rioja Gran Reserva 2016
Best for: aged complexity at a great price
The M&S Collection has also brought El Coto de Rioja’s Duque de Miralta Rioja Gran Reserva 2016 to shelves, bringing the phenomenally-developed flavours of well-aged Riojas to an eminently accessible sub-£20 price point. There is a great deal to find in this Gran Reserva, and a great deal to like, too – starting with the nose.
This is a richly-scented thing, with grand stabs of vanilla-spiked sugar right at the front. An oaky backbone gives context to brighter notes of orange peel and ripe raspberry. In terms of flavour, though, this Gran Reserva is far, far bolder.
It has an immediate shock of tartness to it, supported by a lightly boozy top note. This sharp, alcohol-forward sting settles into juicy macerated fruit notes, reminiscent of blueberry smoothies and rich raspberry syrup. The body beneath these fruity flavours is strong and deep, with classic vanilla and oak notes backed up by more complex spice notes – one of which is distinctly cumin-esque. The finish holds apple-skin and citrus, with those spiced notes carrying on beneath.
This is a delicious Gran Reserva with a rich flavour profile, that would sit well at most dinner tables. Pair with red meats and pasta dishes, but also enjoy on its own merits as an absurdly well-priced example of an aged Rioja.
Buy now £16.00, Ocado
Cosme Palacio Vino De Laguardia Crianza 2018
Best for: tapas
Another from the Cosme Palacio brand, the Vino De Laguardia Crianza 2018 is a brilliant iteration of its more quintessential red offerings, showcasing that same innovation and tradition in one grand bottle. This Crianza is something of an exuberant youth in terms of scent and flavour; first impressions are all highly fruity in nature, with a nose redolent of hedgerow fruits. There is a jammy sweetness behind it, which slowly transmogrifies into blackberry jam tart in the mind – before again twisting, into the tight and heady sweetness of purple Starburst.
The first sips bring that same astonishing balance as the White Reserva 2018, in a characteristic smoothness that sits uncomplicatedly in the mouth. Successive sips allow the tannins to build, though, and soon the wine takes an entirely different character – fuzzy, dry, even chalky, while the finish matures into slow-cooked fruits and muscovado.
The relative softness of this Crianza makes it a good partner to tapas or light starters, particularly vinegary or tomato-tart affairs against below which its smoothness can sit comfortably.
Buy now £22.00, Reserve Wines
Ramon Bilbao Crianza
Best for: sub-£10 dinner-table drinking
Bodegas Ramon Bilbao has been producing wine in La Rioja since the first winery opened in Haro, in 1924; since then, it has also become a major large-scale producer with vineyards across Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental. Its true-to-terroir philosophy and long-term approach to the lands on which it relies puts its produce above many of its similarly large-scale peers, and makes it a strong choice for a better-than-budget wine.
The Ramon Bilbao Crianza is quite a light affair, with an easy nose comprising – for the most part – strawberry and blueberry. There is a miniscule hint of Christmas pudding to be found here, too, between some slight demerara notes and the subtle spices afforded by the light ageing. This relative lightness for what is usually a full-bodied grape is reflected in the red-purple translucency of the wine in the glass.
This lightness carries through as a bright flavour profile, with sweet and fruit notes very much at the forefront. Strawberry gives way to cherry here, though, as this surprisingly easy sipper takes on a jammy body. Despite this, it is not a thick wine; it lingers enough to leave some warmth on the tongue after the fact.
Altogether, this is a very accessible table wine that drinks very comfortably below its high percentage.
Buy now £9.75, Tesco
Campo Viejo Gran Reserva 2016
Best for: drinking with Sunday roast
Campo Viejo is a name with which most supermarket shoppers will be familiar. It is, after all, one of the more popular and prolific budget Rioja brands in the UK, and a major presence on many supermarket and off-license shelves to boot. While its younger, cheaper products are often the focus, Campo Viejo has some slightly more expensive bottles that bring something of serious note to the wine aisle.
The Gran Reserva 2016 is a clear contender amongst more budget-aligned brands, being an accessible and well-developed drink with a lot going for it. The quintessential smells of dried and aged fruits share space with fresher sweetness, evocative of strawberry jam and infused gomme. This combination of sweetness and dried fruit notes is surprisingly reminiscent of fruit and nut Dairy Milk.
In terms of taste, the Gran Reserva has a sharp start. It is jaw-tighteningly tart, with date, peach and fresh plum all present in equal measure – and cinnamon holding up the rear. Thanks to the long finish, that conserve sweetness has an opportunity to develop on the tongue – and at the very end, there’s oak and earth too. This is a moreish and more-than-serviceable Rioja, especially as an informal introduction to the flavour profiles of older Riojas. Drink this with friends, and over roasted dishes.
Buy now £12.79, The Bottle Club
Ramon Bilbao Viñedos de Altura 2019
Best for: spicing up your life
Another of Bodegas Ramon Bilbao’s philosophies relates to altitude – and, where possible, the use of higher-altitude vineyards to produce better wines. The Viñedos de Altura 2019 is a love letter to this philosophy, blending grapes from high-altitude vineyards across Bodegas Ramon Bilbao’s estates.
Its scent is a lively one, with an oaky fust bringing some woody savoury notes to cooked-fruit softness. The Garnacha grapes that partially constitute this Rioja are the likely source of its bold, over-ripe blackberry character, with the Tempranillo volunteering some pepper and sugar; this reviewer cannot shake the notion that there’s marshmallow to be found in this wine’s softer corners, too.
The hedgerow-borne characteristics of the Viñedos de Altura 2019 are even more present in its flavour, where extreme tartness brings late-summer harvests and holly bushes straight to mind. As well as being tart, it has a remarkably dry finish, which over time takes on notes of green apple as well as bramble bush.
The sharp near-sourness of this Ramon Bilbao is something of an acquired taste, but the Viñedos de Altura 2019 is a great exhibition for the spicier possibilities of Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes from Iberian climes. This tart wine is also a formidable partner for spicy dishes.
Buy now £16.72, Decantalo
Verdict
It is impossible to see reviewing wine as anything other than a subjective affair, especially when it comes to the high-quality, highly localised produce of Rioja vintners at the top of their game. This list contains something for everyone, but this reviewer’s tastes for the full-bodied have led us towards two specific entrants.
The Artelan Rioja Reserva Edicion Limitada 2018 is a fantastic wine with a complex flavour profile and a drinkability that is hard to find in many bottles; however, the Glorioso Rioja Reserva 2017 has this reviewer’s heart for its maximalist nose and well-balanced robustness.
