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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nicky Rampley-Clarke

Best ports to drink this Christmas and beyond

A fortified wine that’s produced in Portugal – specifically, in the Douro Valley in the north – port is typically red and sweet, and because of such has become synonymous with the festive season, usually drunk as a dessert wine after dinner is done.

But it’s so much more versatile than that, whether mixed into cocktails, enjoyed throughout the year or savoured as an aperitif, and comes in a range of colours from ruby to white and rosé. And that’s before you’ve even begun to dig into the differences between tawny, vintage and crusted, amongst others.

Now, a quick history lesson. Named after the city of Porto at the mouth of the Douro River, port first found popularity in Britain as an alternative to red wine when France reduced its supply (the horror!). What’s more, port can only be called port when it originates from Portugal, although there are other versions produced around the world, from Australia to America and Argentina.

The protected wine region of Douro produces a harvest of indigenous grape varieties – over 50, no less – that make it so delicious, while the port-making process itself involves pressing the fruit to extract the juice, before being fermented and fortified by adding a neutral grape spirit, then storing the liquid in barrels or oak casks for around 18 months (or longer for more aged varieties). Finally, the liquid is blended with other batches to create the resulting port that ends up being poured into your glass, usually on Christmas Day in front of the Eastenders festive special.

Christopher Martin, an educator at The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), says: “Port is usually considered a seasonal after-dinner drink, but, in reality, it is so much more versatile. Over the past few years port’s image has evolved, and it’s now seen as more than just a traditional sweet treat for winter.

As well as refreshing white port and tonics, and exciting new bottlings of old barrels, it’s becoming increasingly popular in cocktails and used as a low-alcohol alternative to spirits. Several companies are playing with different bottle sizes, too, from large-format, which add flair and theatricality, to smaller formats that allow customers to try a wide range of styles without having to buy a full-size bottle.”

Martin continues: “One way to understand the quality of port is to see how well the fortifying spirit is integrated into the wine. For red ports, the alcohol should be well-balanced by a pronounced intensity of black and red fruit flavours. The best ports also have a lingering finish with blackcurrant notes, hints of baking spice and dried fruits, such as prunes or dried figs. Finally, regardless of whether it’s ruby or tawny, white or red, the best ports have layers of complexity that make them wines of outstanding quality for drinking any time of the year.”

You heard the man. While we’ve rounded-up the best ports to drink for Christmas, you don’t have to wait until the holidays to pour yourself a cheeky glass. After all, there’s no time like the present, right?

See our pick of the best ports below

Harvey Nichols 10 Year Old Tawny Port

A perfect blend of oak-matured ports, the 10 Year Old Tawny Port from Harvey Nicks doesn’t just look the part in its posh bottle, but it tastes sensational, too. Think rich, nutty and velvety on the palate, bursting with flavours of hazelnut, caramel and spiced orange, complete with sweet dried fruit and exotic spice notes. They suggest you serve it lightly chilled, either on its own or with dessert or cheese, and we couldn’t agree more. Simply sublime.

Buy now £29.00, Harvey Nichols

Paxtons 10 Year Old Tawny Tawny Port

As you’d expect, long-standing London cheesemonger Paxton & Whitfield, with its iconic store on Jermyn Street, does a fine line in ports. Chief among them is their 10-Year Old Tawny Port which combines delicate wood notes with rich aromas of mature fruit to spectacular effect. It’s mellow and elegant while pairing beautifully with after-dinner cheese (the stronger, the better). There’s no need to decant – just open and go.

Buy now £24.95, Paxton & Whitfield

Niepoort Amigos Port

White Christmas? Yes, please. This classic white port is the result of a recent partnership between Michelin-starred Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes and prestigious winemakers Niepoort. In addition to three wines and a ruby port, Amigos is the fifth and final drink in the collaboration, golden in colour with nutty notes of almond and a fresh finish. It’s made from a blend of different wines aged in oak casks for up to three-and-a-half years for real depth of flavour. Serve 50ml with 10ml quince and rose syrup, 10ml verjus (sour grape juice) and 80ml tonic over plenty of ice in a highball for a seasonal twist on a summer aperitif.

Buy now £24.00, Lisboeta

Noval Black Port

Aromatic and fresh, Noval Black comes from a famous maker that’s been producing fortified wine since 1715, and this well-balanced expression gives things a contemporary twist that’s far removed from its vintage counterparts. Make yourself a ‘black and stormy’ by blending with ginger ale and lime juice for a Christmas concoction with a difference. In short: the perfect cocktail port.

Buy now £21.99, Selfridges

2017 Berry Bros. & Rudd Late Bottled Vintage Port by Quinta de la Rosa

Expect concentration, elegance and depth of flavour from this ‘declared’ vintage – one of only a handful of ports from the last decade that can claim as much. You can always count on Berry Bros. & Rudd to curate the finest bottles and this LBV is a case in point: black and red berries, Christmas cake spice and a touch of fresh vanilla swirl on the nose, while sweet blackberry and raspberry fruit, orange peel and toasted walnuts tease the palate. Seriously easy drinking.

Buy now £18.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Tesco Finest Vintage Port

Tesco is serving up a corker in this vintage port – part of its prestigious Finest range – with rich cassis flavours and notes of black fruit and dark chocolate. If you can resist drinking it this year, paired with ripe blue cheeses or dried fruits and nuts, they say it can be left to mature in the bottle for at least two decades. But really, who has that sort of willpower?

Buy now £20.00, Tesco

Asda Extra Special Late Bottled Vintage Port

Smooth and rich with bags of intense berry flavours, this pocket-friendly port from Asda’s Extra Special label offers those on a budget (all of us?) plenty of bang for their buck, while the hefty bottle itself looks far posher than its reasonable price tag. An absolute steal – tell only who you must.

Buy now £9.50, Asda

Fletcher’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port

This reasonably-priced port from Fletcher’s via Aldi is a sure-fire hit: rich and silky, it’s packed with aromas of dried fruit and honey, layered with hints of toffee and notes of ripe berry fruits, butterscotch and fine oak. A winter-warming winner.

Buy now £11.49, Aldi

Co-op 10 Year old Tawny Port

Blended with the finest port wines – all aged for many years in oak casks – this mellow tawny from neighbourhood retailer Co-op has rich and nutty aromas of toffee and walnut. An after-dinner crowd-pleaser.

Buy now £14.50, Co-op

Adnams Finest Reserve Port

Ruby-red in colour with rich flavours of red berries and balsamic, Adnams Finest Reserve Port is a Christmas cracker, deliciously fully-bodied and fruity with an elegant, lingering finish. For best results, store for a year or two, if you can resist.

Buy now £14.99, Adnams

Penfolds Father Tawny

While Father Tawny by respected Australian winemaker Penfolds can’t claim to be bona-fide port, there’s no denying the taste credentials of this top-shelf bottle, with intense aromas of mulberries, sultanas, treacle and caramel paired with nutty and sweet flavours. Deliciously different.

Buy now £24.99, Majestic

Graham’s Fine White Port

A white-port wonder: crisp and fresh, Graham’s is perfect for mixing porto tonicos, a vibrant mix of port and tonic that’s as refreshing in the winter as it is in the summer. Made from white grapes, it comprises delicate flavours of almond and crisp fruit, while its light golden colour is lovely in the glass. Finish your aperitif with citrus zest or a fresh sprig of rosemary for even more flavour.

Buy now £12.95, The Wine Society

Quevedo 10 Year Old Tawny Port

This sweet nectar is produced by independent winemaker Oscar Quevedo – the family have been making port for 100 years – and is a blend of casks from his cellar that combines different harvests. The result? Notes of dried fruit, cinnamon and walnut; coffee and chocolate on the palate; and a glorious golden-brown colour.

Buy now £17.99, Naked Wines

Quinta da Pedra Alta Pedra No. 03 White Port

Introducing the new kids on the block: Quinta da Pedra Alta. The Douro-based winemakers have completely flipped the classic image of port on its head with fresh varieties that are modern in style and design with a refreshing lightness to them. Our pick is this white port, crafted from a blend of premium grapes that are grown on the highest vineyards, which is pale in colour and packing vibrant citrus and pineapple flavours with apple aromas and tropical notes. Drink now or in five years for even better taste.

Buy now £23.50, Master of Malt

Fonseca Terra Prima Port, Organic

Organic port is a brand-new enterprise for the historic port house of Fonseca, and their debut certainly doesn’t disappoint with intense cherry, plum and berry flavours, plus a velvety texture. No wonder it bagged a gold medal in The Drinks Business Global Masters Organic Competition 2022.

Buy now £19.00, Abel & Cole

Fortnum’s Dry White Port, Niepoort

Created exclusively for Fortnum & Mason by Niepoort, this fancy number blends the fuller flavours of aged port with the fresher notes of white port, delivering a drink that’s characterised by notes of honeysuckle and butterscotch. The youthful bottle looks cool for your home bar, too, best served with olives or salted almonds as an aperitif.

Buy now £14.95, Fortnum & Mason

Waitrose Blueprint Tawny Port

Gentle cask-ageing results in this delightful soft and mellow tawny port from Waitrose. Enjoy nut and caramel aromas with hints of ripe fruit, plus a fresh, well-balanced palate and a long, dry-ish finish. Excellent quality and superb value.

Buy now £9.99, Waitrose

M&S Collections Late Bottled Vintage Port

While it’s only available as a case of six online until it reaches Ocado later this month, the Late Bottled Vintage Port from M&S Collections can be picked-up in-store at just £13 a pop. The rich style is a good match for strong cheeses like Stilton as well as fruit cake and even meat dishes. This isn’t just any port… you know the drill.

£84 for 6 (£14 per bottle).

Buy now £84.00, M&S

Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port

This black beauty is filled with caramelised orange and fig flavours that sing of the festive season. Unlike most ports, aged in Porto, Noval ages theirs in the drier climate of the valleys where it’s cooler and protected from the searing heat. The result is this vibrant number bursting with spice and fruit aromas and flavours.

Buy now £24.99, Waitrose

Graham’s 2017 Late Bottled Vintage

The brightly-coloured tube encasing this bottle of Graham’s 2017 Late Bottled Vintage was created with handcrafted marbled paper to reflect the craftsmanship that goes into producing these wines. But it doesn’t only look pretty as a gift, but tastes delicious, too, perfectly balanced between complexity and elegance with floral aromas and ripe black fruit flavours. Seriously delish.

Buy now £13.99, Waitrose

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