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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nicky Rampley-Clarke

Best Italian wines taste tested: From fruity Prosecco to rich Barolo

Whether light, bright Pinot Grigio or deep, rich Barolo, Italy is famous the world over for the sheer quantity and variety of wine it serves up, which is hardly surprising for a country also renowned for its lip-smackingly good food. After all, what’s a piled-high plate of luscious ragù without a delicious bottle of Chianti to go with it? Or round after round of aperitivo without a lively glass of Prosecco? It honestly doesn’t bear thinking about.

Lauren Denyer, a wine educator at WSET (The Wine & Spirit Education Trust), explains: “Italy has regularly been one of the biggest producers of wine in the world, which is little wonder when the country is carpeted in vineyards.

With a tapestry of rivers, grand lakes, coastal expanses and mountain ranges, Italy provides perfect conditions for growing and ripening its many hundreds of indigenous grape varieties. These impart a strong identity for their wines, with many bearing their name or being the coveted grape of a prestigious region, such as Nebbiolo for Barolo wines and Sangiovese for Chianti wines.”

She adds: “Italian winemaking traditionally forgoes big oak influence. Many of the white wines are zesty and fresh with gentle fruit flavours and can be drunk with or without food, such as many Gavi and Soave wines. Meanwhile, Italian reds often show floral characteristics with redcurrant and cherry fruit and fragrant notes reflecting the wild herbs grown around the vineyards.”

But it was only relatively recently that Italian wines have come into their own, as it transpires. “After World War II, with grape-growing land in abundance, everyone wanted a piece of the pie to re-establish their winemaking heritage after the turbulence of the previous years,” Lauren says.

“However, this led to over-production resulting in large volumes but lesser-quality wines. Over the last few decades this has drastically changed and most producers are making wines with integrity and care ensuring the general quality of the wine from Italy is of a high standard. Many wineries are family-owned with young winemakers now at the helm doing exciting and innovative things while embracing more sustainable vineyard practices.”

Seemingly, the time to try Italian wines is now, especially when they’re pioneers of trending tipples such as orange wine – referred to in Italy as Ramato and made by macerating the wine on the skins of the grapes – as well as alternatives to Champagnes in a new wave of sparkling (the resurgence of Lambrusco, for example, with younger producers making creative iterations that are low in alcohol and seriously food-friendly). 

Here, we’ve personally taste-tested a slew of bottles – someone had to, right? – to showcase the best Italian wines in the business.

Saluti!

Planeta Cometa Sicilia Menfi

It’s easy to be seduced by the sexy label of this refreshing white from Selfridges – all sophisticated font and star-studded sky. Luckily, family-owned wine brand Planeta teams its signature style with plenty of substance by combining the best Fiano grapes to offer rich flavours of peach and honey balanced by fresh notes of citrus. A seafood star.

Buy now £47.99, Selfridges

Gordon Ramsay Intenso Rosso

It was only a matter of time before TV chef Gordon Ramsay got into the wine business.

His first foray is a modern collection of Italian wines launched in collaboration with renowned winemaker Alberto Antonini that blends fruit from the regions of Tuscany and Abruzzo. With grapes chosen for taste rather than the tradition, the resulting red – Intenso Rosso – is intense and vibrant with aromas of fresh redcurrant and blackberry.

Perfect with a pink slab of steak.

Buy now £10.00, Morrisons

Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Pignoletto Brut

Made from its namesake grape – a little-known variety from the Emilia-Romagna region in northern Italy – this gentle sparkling has delicate notes of white blossom and a lively palate of green apples and white peaches. Perfect pre-dinner as an aperitif with charcuterie and cheese – and a lot more pocket-friendly than Champagne for celebratory occasions.

Buy now £7.00, Sainsbury’s

Co-op Irresistible Pinot Grigio

You can always trust the premium Irresistible collection at Co-op to deliver on quality – and its Pinot Grigio doesn’t disappoint with aromas of pear drops and nuts paired with flavours of stone fruit and lychee. Hailing from the Veneto region by winemaker Alberto Marchisio, it’s a refreshing bottle at a cracking price. Great for midweek dinners.

Buy now £7.00, Co-op

Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Valpolicella Ripasso

The Ripasso in the name of this rich and juicy bottle refers to a process where partially-dried grapes are used to make the wine for more concentrated flavours. The result is a rich and spicy red that can stand up to the robust flavours of a hearty beef stew. The deep-ruby red colour is suggestive of its red-berry and ripe-cherry flavours. 

Buy now £12.00, Sainsbury’s

Sainsbury’s Taste The Difference Discovery Collection Verdeca

Straw-yellow in colour with unusual green hues, this Verdeca from Puglia is all white flowers on the nose and ripe fruits on the palate, with a herbal and crisp finish.

The refreshing combination makes it a great match for fresh seafood or salads. More generally, it’s worth looking out for the Discover Collection at Sainsbury’s as it champions unusual wines at brilliant prices.

Buy now £8.50, Sainsbury’s

Francone Barbaresco DOCG Gallina Cru 2019

Exclusive to the UK, this Barbaresco is typical of one of Italy’s greatest wines – characteristically refined, concentrated and deep – with classic flavours of rose, liquorice, clove and leather. It’s toe-curling stuff and even better if you’ve got the patience to age it for 20 years.

Buy now £16.48, Independent Wine

Ascheri Gavi Di Gavi Docg

Light and fresh with aromas of wildflowers and citrus fruits together with apples and lemon on the palate, this straw-coloured Gavi di Gavi is made from Cortese grapes plucked from the hillsides of Piedmont. Simply sublime.

Buy now £13.00, Tesco

La Gioiosa Prosecco Gold

If you’ve been to a bottomless brunch, you’ll know that all Proseccos aren’t made equal, as this premium variety proves. While the gold bottle may suggest it’s all style over substance, the fizz inside is fine and fresh with flavours of ripe apples and wildflowers. A real crowd-pleaser.

Buy now £11.50, Sainsbury's

Co-op Irresistible Salice Salentino Riserva

Full-bodied and fruit-driven, this economical bottle from Puglia in southern Italy is a food-friendly wine that can stand up to even the heartiest of dishes, while being deep-red in colour.

Buy now £8.00, Co-op

Monte Fitti Custoza Superiore 2021

Reflective of the Venetian region of Custoza – often overshadowed by its more famous, star-studded neighbours – this is an authentic Italian wine bursting with a blend of native grapes boasting fresh, fruity flavours of peach and pineapple. Elegant and oh-so refined.

Buy now £18.99, Naked Wines

Mionetto Orange Label Prosecco

Consider this your new ‘house’ prosecco serving plenty of bang for your buck with apple aromas, flavours of honey, liquorice and blossom, and a soft fizz. All for a tenner; what a winner.

Buy now £10.00, Sainsbury's

Cordero Barbera D’Alba Superiore DOC 2021

As the oldest grape variety in Piedmont, Barbera is grown in rich clay soil in southwestern sun, making for full and complete ripening. For this bottle, that means a rich purple colour, intense raspberry notes and a mellow palate. Strong and vibrant.

Buy now £26.99, Naked Wines

Querciabella Ardalico Chianti Classico

Bursting with bright cherry and herb flavours, Adralico is a perfect demonstration of Sangiovese, making for a fruity and vibrant sip that’s as good solo as it is with food. Absolutely mouthwatering.

Buy now £19.99, Waitrose

Tesco Finest Barolo

Delicate, powerful and complex – as you’d expect of a Barolo, often billed as ‘the king’ of Italian wine – local Nebbiolo grapes from the region of Piedmont in the north of Italy create aromas of spice, roses and fruit with strong tannins. Cracking with warm, comforting winter classics such as venison stew.

Buy now £20.00, Tesco

Tesco Finest Prosecco Doc

Pair a seafood starter with this Prosecco from prestigious producer Cantine Maschio via the premium Finest collection at Tesco. It’s elegant and refined with a palate defined by citrus and pear together with peach-blossom aromas.

Buy now £8.00, Tesco

Coltassala Castello Di Volpaia

Oak-aged for opulence, this Sangioveto is rich in flavour and texture, offering a fine wine for a fair price. It’s made at the oldest vineyard in Volpaia, a picturesque village in Tuscany in Chianti, and serves fruit, chocolate and spice. Great for a hearty roast.

Buy now £34.99, Adnams

Primitivo La Masseria

Who knew much-loved department store Fenwick is home to a collection of delectable wines? It’s certainly news to us, which is why we were thrilled to discover this full-bodied Primitivo, a rich, concentrated and deep wine full of dark fruit with aromas of blueberries and spices.  

Buy now £13.50, Fenwick

M&S Etna Rosso DOC

Despite its fiery namesake, Etna Rosso from M&S is surprisingly delicate, perfumed with blackberries, cherries and mocha featuring a soft and silky finish. It’s made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grapes in the shadow of the volcanic mountain and pairs beautifully with pork, tuna and pasta.

Buy now £12.00, Ocado

2022 Moscato D’Asti Marcarini, Piedmont, Italy

Berry Bros. & Rudd on St. James’s Street in London rarely lets us down, if ever, and case in point is its Moscato d’Asti sparkling wine, a lightly frothy and delicately sweet number with floral aromas of roses and peach blossom. Amazing as an accompaniment for brunch at just 5 per cent alcohol.

Buy now £12.95, Berry Bros. & Rudd

Novantaceppi Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC

Dark forest berries and pleasant round tannins make this Montepulciano – one of the most famous wines in the world – a delicious choice for red meats and aged cheese.

Buy now £12.00, Amazon

Harvey Nichols Chianti Colli Senesi 2019

Having pizza for dinner? Pair a slice or three with this Chianti from Harvey Nicks featuring notes of juicy Morello cherry, dried herbs and leather as well as tangy redcurrant and cranberry. A food-friendly find.   

Buy now £16.95, Harvey Nichols

Bianco Colli Tortonesi DOC Oltretorrente 2022

Winemaking couple Chiari Penati and Michele Conoscente have created a beautiful Italian white in the form of this vintage made using a Cortese and Favorita blend of grapes. Red apples, coconut, vanilla, candle wax and cream combine with a clean minerality on the palate.

Buy now £19.95, The Whisky Exchange

Lidl Prosecco Rosé Extra Dry

Think pink with this extra dry Prosecco rosé from Lidl with gentle red fruits and refreshing pear flavours. We rather love it by itself as a cheap but very cheerful aperitif mid-week.

Buy now £6.99, Lidl

Della Vite Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

The brainchild of the Delevingne sisters – Chloe, Poppy and Cara – Della Vita is punchy for a prosecco but worth every penny. It successfully reimagines the sparkling wine by using Glera grapes for deep flavour and rich texture while packaging everything up in a seriously sexy bottle.

Buy now £21.50, Sainsbury's

Vinca Organic White Wine

Canned wine is having a moment and the best of the bunch is Vinca, its organic wines grown under the Sicilian sun and served from ready-to-pour recyclable tins. Our pick is the crisp white, Organic Catarratto, made from its namesake grape to deliver tropical and citrus notes. The ultimate train – or whenever-the-heck-you-want – wine.

Buy now £21.00, Vinca Wine

Méthode Traditionnelle Tasting Pack

For something a bit special, why not snap up a tasting pack from Fattoria La Vialla – a family-run, organic-biodynamic farm and wine estate in Tuscany – featuring a trio of sparkling wines? Don’t worry: everything is sent from the farm to an HQ in the UK so you don’t need to worry about import duties or sluggish delivery.

Price given is for a tasting pack.

Buy now £62.20, Lavialla

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