I remember the feeling now, all these years later: the smugness on my face on the school playground when my friends cooed at my tan. “Oh it’s just moisturiser” I’d say lapping up the compliments, knowing all too well that it was only a half-truth.
Gradual moisturisers were for me, like many others, my introduction to the tanning world. For those just dipping their toe into the wonderful world of faux glow, they’re a midway point between traditional corporal care and the next stage of coating your limbs in questionably-coloured pigmented products.
Fake tan is notoriously difficult to get right, even for the most advanced appliers. It requires a carefully curated multi-step routine that begins in the shower with prep and a good body scrub, followed by head-to-toe moisturisation and ending with a blending brush to remove those tell-tale steaks. It’s nothing if not a process.
But that’s where these gradual tans shine. While they will look best on freshly exfoliated skin, it’s not imperative in the same way to do this first step as the one-stop product imparts hydration onto the skin to nourish, while leaving a bronzed finish in its wake. The more you apply, the deeper the colour becomes. It’s all very easy, and effortless and encourages an even finish and thus a more natural-looking fresh-from-the-beach hue.
Do gradual tanners work?
“Yes”, says tanning legend, James Harknett. “A gradual tan is most effective for someone who wants just a gentle touch of sun. As they contain a lower percentage of DHA (tanning agent), they are ideal for building up a colour as opposed to an immediate dark finish. Also, they contain skincare and moisturising properties which is ideal for keeping the skin hydrated”.
How do gradual self-tanners work?
He explains, “They work in the same way as all self-tans, meaning that they react with the skin cells to create a darkening effect. The only difference with gradual is due to the lower percentage of DHA the effect is more subtle but just as effective”.
Do you need a tanning mitt for a gradual tanner?
For ease, Harknett stresses its importance, “Tanning mitts enable you to have control over the displacement of the tan across your skin - without colouring the palms of your hands. Also, due to their size, you can cover a larger area in a shorter amount of time”.
Can you use gradual tanner on your face?
This depends on the product in question but there are many formulas that are designed for both. Harknett agrees, “It works just as well over the face and body - as a regular self-tan product”.
Can you tan through gradual tanner?
In short, yes but beware of the UVA and UVB rays. “Self-tan products do not offer SPF protection, meaning one can tan through a gradual tanner. I always advise applying SPF daily on top of the self-tan”, reveals the tanning expert.
Does gradual tanner stain clothes?
This is one of the many positives of gradual tanners. He breaks it down, “They do not contain a colour guide. Therefore nothing will transfer onto clothing, bed linen or fabrics”.
James Harknett also shares his top tips for flawless application:
- Ensure any shaving is completed 24 hours before applying the gradual tan.
- If you don’t exfoliate regularly, use an exfoliating tanning glove on your body the day before tanning. Concentrate on areas of skin that don’t produce natural moisture - such as elbows, knees, heels and feet.
- Directly before applying the tan, moisturise the areas of skin where tan can cling to, such as the back of the heels, the feet, elbows and hands.
- When applying the tan, start on the legs sweeping down to the feet in circular motions - this ensures a streak-free finish.
- Gradual tan can be built to your desired shade. However, I recommend no more than three applications a week to avoid tan build-up.
- Gradual tans are great to take on holiday, to keep up the spray tan you may have had prior to going away.
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Tan-Luxe The Gradual Illuminating Tanning Lotion 250ml
This is a gradual tan for the time-pressed among us. While it has the texture and thus the ease of application of a classic lotion, the bronze glow that it leaves you with begins to develop in just one hour. So, if you’re looking for a quick fix without the streaks, stress and mishaps of a typical tanning product used in a hurry - this may be your best bet.
The moisturising formula is a cream-oil texture that is lightweight and glides onto your limbs, coating them in the conditioning benefits of raspberry seed oil, vitamin E, and aloe vera as well as a caffeine-enriched cellutone complex, the latter of which has firming properties.
Buy now £25.00, Cult Beauty
St. Tropez Gradual Tan Watermelon Firming Lotion
Best for: a sun-kissed glow
Skin looking grey, pallid and devoid of any healthy sun-soaked glow? Enter this gradual fake tan from St Tropez. The moisturiser-tan hybrid will help build a natural-looking luminosity to counteract ray-starved complexions - no “you’ve been Tangoed” moments here.
It builds in around four to six hours with a medium colourway that can be deepened with more layers and hydrates at the same time with hyaluronic acid and glycerin. Instead of that traditional biscuit aroma, the luxury tan label has enriched its product with a watermelon scent.
Buy now £18.00, Cult Beauty
Skinny Tan Tan and Tone Wonder Serum Gradual Tanner
If the weather didn’t play ball or you spent most of your activity-filled trip unable to soak up the rays, you can still recreate that summer, sun-kissed complexion with Skinny Tan.
This is a gradual product that hydrates as it goes with the inclusion of glycerine, aloe vera and antioxidants in the formula - and the brand even suggests it has a firming effect.
What we can confirm is that it has a lovely texture that doesn’t feel tacky or sticky. The tan develops with a great colour over six to eight hours and it’s vegan.
Buy now £18.74, Boots
ESPA Gradual Tan Body Moisturiser
When you’ve got pale skin, a gradual tan is a great way to work up the colour so you don’t wake up with a shock or orange hands. ESPA’s gradual tan comes in a light body moisturiser that takes four hours to develop. The result is a subtle tan, which can be built up daily, or whenever you want some more colour.
We loved the smell of this tan - a Shea butter and sweet almond smell with hints of jasmine, rosewood and ylang-ylang. Pair it with ESPA’s salt scrub before you apply the tan to help you exfoliate the skin and get it ready for that lovely even complexion.
Buy now £43.00, ESPA
Beauty Pie Awesome Bronze Gradual Tan Drops
Follow your typical cleanse and exfoliator with a few drops of this natural tanning product from Beauty Pie and a sunny demeanour will follow. There’s just something confidence-boosting about having a tan and these drops provide the added bonus of serum-like skin goodness.
The ingredient line-up includes banana flower extract, red seaweed to counteract streaks, spirulina, amino acids and oligopeptides, all of which combine to give a realistic-looking glow, boosting hydration and with antioxidant properties.
Buy now £40.00, Beauty Pie
Three Warriors Gradual Tan
Keep your tan boosted all year long, even if the British weather doesn’t play ball with the help of this gradual tint product from Three Warriors.
When your skin is deprived of sun and parched too, this organic product should be on hand to give your skin the TLC it deserves with the nutrient-packed cocktail of olive, coconut and avocado oils, vitamins A, D and E and aloe vera for ultra-hydration. There’s also chamomile extract to calm the skin, which makes this a great formula for those with sensitivities and inflammation.
Buy now £34.99, Oxygen Boutique
Dove DermaSpa Summer Revived Medium to Dark Gradual Self-tan Body Mousse
If you have ever used a gradual tan in the past, there’s a good chance that it came from Dove. While the formulation has evolved over the years, it has remained one of the most trusted brands to nourish the skin, while imparting a noticeable tint with every use.
The DermaSpa is renowned for bringing a natural-looking glow to pallid skin with a deeply hydrating effect that lasts for up to two days. It’s transfer and streak-free, absorbing quickly into the skin with the mousse consistency that also makes for a speedier application process (over laborious rubbing in) that will allow you to stick to a tanning routine even during the colder months.
Buy now £5.76, Boots
Garnier Summer Body Hydrating Gradual Tan Moisturiser Dark
One whiff of this gradual tanning moisturiser from Garnier will have you thinking “summer!”. It can be applied on the face and body with a deep golden glow that builds with every layer. Apricot oil is at the heart and we have this ingredient to thank for the highly moisturising formula. The lotion rapidly sinks into parched skin, leaving it feeling soft and a just-stepped-off-the-yacht evenly coated tan. While the light aroma is immediate, it dries down to a more classic (read: less pleasant) tanning scent so will require a wash-off.
Buy now £6.00, Boots
Self Glow By James Read Dusk to Dawn Overnight Tan Facial
James Read has been a fixture on the sunless tanning scene for over 20 years, providing formulas under his eponymous label that are gentle but effective for achieving a healthy glow. Self Glow is his newest offering that focuses on incorporating skincare favourites to enhance the tan experience.
First and foremost, the five-strong product line-up uses an adapting, plant-based DHA so that every skin tone can maximise its smoothing and evening and as for the hero, the Dusk to Dawn Overnight Tan Facial, there is a wealth of nourishing ingredients.
These include hyaluronic acid filling spheres, fermented mushrooms, aloe vera and Vitamin E. There is also Algaktiv Zen, an unfamiliar component but one designed to counteract premature ageing. The result? A sun-kissed, healthy and radiant complexion in just a couple of squeezes.
Buy now £44.00, Space NK
