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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Nicky Rampley-Clarke

Best French wines to drink in 2022 to make you a connoisseur

Navigating the incredibly extensive and often exclusive world of French wine can create an uneasy feeling of imposter syndrome in even the most fearless and discerning of oenophiles. Where to start?

So many variables, opinions and tastes mean even getting to grips with the mere basics can be overwhelming, never mind swilling and swirling your way around some of the best bottles the country has to crack open. Plus, there’s the age-old problem of how to pronounce some of them: Languedoc-Roussillon? Mâcon-Villages? Perrier-Jouët?!

France’s history of winemaking dates back to BC, when Marseille – then known as Massalia – began trading its wares with other neighbouring countries. But it was the French monks (yes, really) who really put its wines on the map. The secret to their success was simple: they believed that the location of the vineyard affected the quality of the wine. And thus, the idea of terroir was born, now referring more broadly to wine regions, the specific grapes that can be grown there and even the soil, elevation and climate (all impacting on flavour, of course).

Unlike elsewhere, French wine is labelled by its region rather than its grape, and the main ones are thus: Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, Jura, Languedoc, the Loire Valley, Provence and Rhône. Naturally, these different regions have become synonymous with different sips, from sophisticated sparkling and pale pinks to light whites and heavy reds, while the likes of the Loire Valley and Rhône are billed as the best for quality, and the most famous is arguably Bordeaux.

A significant step forward for French wine was the introduction of the 1935 appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system by the government: rules around which grapes could be grown in specific areas in addition to regulations on how they should be made to be afforded the name of an appellation. For shoppers eyeing-up bottles on shelves, this meant more information about the wine they were buying, and truly excellent quality of French wine across the board. Other countries have followed suit and adopted similar systems.

Lauren Denyer, a wine educator at The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), says: “France has always had a formidable reputation when it comes to wine. Many of the finest French regions and names in wine are globally-recognised, placing France firmly amongst the world’s most important wine countries. It has a long history of wine production, with evidence of winemaking spanning back 2,600 years.

It has a varied climate from the cool, Atlantic-influenced regions of the Loire, where they produce light fresh whites like Muscadet, through to the hotter, drier Mediterranean regions in the south, famous for full-bodied, complex reds like those of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Explorers of France’s diverse regions will also come across many of the world’s best loved rosé, sparkling and fortified wines.”

She adds: “Many grape varieties found all over the world are native to France – think Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. French vine-growers and winemakers have extensive experience producing great wines from these grapes, and they are extremely well-versed in understanding which soil types and vineyard sites are best for growing particular varieties. Their classification systems reflect this, with terms such as Grand Cru, Premier Cru and Lieu Dit being used to denote estates, vineyards and villages.

These nuances open the door to a whole world of quality options that help to diversify France’s already huge offering. With every wine style imaginable, from simple fruity styles to some of the world’s rarest and most coveted bottles, there is a French wine for everyone!”

Below, we’ve provided just a snapshot of some wonderful French wines, spanning different regions and a range of price points. But of course, it only scratches the surface, and it takes a lifetime of long lunches to really understand its complexities.

What are you waiting for? Corkscrews at-the-ready…

Luc Belaire Gold

With a beautiful gold bottle, Luc Belaire Gold is a party-starter made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, pairing with nearly any cuisine or perfect simply by itself. Fresh and fruity, it has hints of peach, brioche and pear with a refreshing and dry finish, while its vibrant bubbles and toasty colour make it sing in the glass.

Buy now £31.99, Selfridges

Crémant d’Alsace, Taste the Difference

Sourced from Cave du Roi Dagobert – a key player in the Alsace region – this sparkling is crisp and fresh with flavours of apple, brioche and lemon. It spends a minimum of 12 months ageing in the barrel, which gives the wine its signature creamy richness, while an accessible price makes it a celebration wine that doesn’t break the bank.

Believe us: it goes down an absolute treat as an aperitif.

Buy now £10.00, Sainsbury’s

Mirabeau Pure Rosé Provence

Rosés have come on leaps and bounds in recent years, and it’s thanks to modern winemakers like Mirabeau, who have upped both its flavour profile and cool credentials. This, its flagship pink, is Provence in a glass with a powdery colour and a clean and expressive taste with aromas of peach, lychee and passionfruit.

The perfect pour on a summer’s day – or on the slopes, après-ski.

Buy now £15.50, Tesco

Jean Philippe Moulin Champagne Blanc de Blancs

From the same winemaker as Ruinart and Mumm – shh! – this Blanc de Blancs Champagne is a premium pick at a budget price. As Jean Philippe Moulin’s flagship bubbly, he’s poured all his expertise and passion into each and every bottle, resulting in a super-crisp, super-zippy fizz that pairs well with a fresh seafood platter.

£28.99 members; £74.99 non-members

Buy now £74.99, Naked Wines

Le Champ D’Orphee, Papillon

From an underrated region of France called Galliac, Le Champ D’Orphee is made with a local grape called Bracoul, and the result is a mid-bodied and super-versatile red for any occasion. Headed up by Stephane Lucas, the tiny farm harvests all its grapes by hand, while extensive sorting means only the healthiest and ripest are selected. This care and attention show in every bottle of this crowd-pleaser with a crunchy taste and lovely minerality.

Buy now £17.42, Vivino

Aldi Crémant du Jura, Specially Selected

The popularity of crémant – a quality French sparkling that’s a fraction of the cost of Champagne – is fast gathering pace, so bag this bottle before the secret’s out. The effervescent Chardonnay doesn’t only come in an elegant bottle, which will get everyone talking around the table, but it’s packed with bright flavours of crisp green apple and ripe citrus fruit that prove it’s got style as well as substance.

Buy now £8.99, Aldi

Crémant d’Alsace Cuvée Julien Dopff au Moulin NV

Dry and refreshing, this Crémant is excellent value at just £14.50 a bottle, blended from both Pinot Noir and Auxerrois grapes to serve up vibrant and fruity flavours with a hint of the tropical. Persistent bubbles – both in the glass and on the palate – round things off.

Buy now £14.50, The Wine Society

Bouvet Ladubay ‘Trésor’ Saumur Brut 2018

A bestseller for a reason, this crowd-pleasing Saumur Brut is made from a Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay blend, and is the first fizz from the winery to be aged in oak barrels. The result? A welcome addition to your wine-rack that’s opulent yet delicate with a creamy texture and flavours of brioche and citrus.

Buy now £19.99, Majestic

M&S Collection Chablis

The recently-launched M&S Collection – a curation of the best wines from Marks – make it easy to browse and buy bottles for even a beginner. This, its M&S Collection Chablis, is a stellar choice: a classic Chablis that’s lipsmackingly crisp and dry with green apple and nut aromas followed by a mouthwatering citrus tang. There’s nothing not to love – especially at this price point.

Buy now £15.00, M&S

M&S Collection Margaux

Margaux? Only one of the most famous wines to have come out of Bordeuax. Good news, then, that M&S Collection – an edit of the best wines from the namesake retailer – is offering its own Margaux for just £22 a pop. You get plenty of bang for your buck with a silky, elegant and supple red wine bursting with flavours of blackcurrant, plum and spice. A must-buy.

Buy now £22.00, M&S

Château Auzines Corbières, Taste the Difference

Rich and full-bodied, the Château Auzines Corbières is packed with ripe cherry notes and aromas of sun-baked herbs, making this bottle a bold pairing for hearty stews, roasted game or strong cheeses. At just £10, it’s an absolute steal for something so refined, so tell only who you must…

Buy now £9.00, Sainsbury’s

Bouchard Aîné & Fils Chardonnay

What a bargain: just £8 gets you an elegant, round and well-balanced Chardonnay positively bursting with flavours of exotic fruits. Expressive and characterful, enjoy with fresh salads, roast chicken or grilled salmon, or indeed by itself as an all-too quaffable ‘house’ white at home.

Buy now £8.00, Sainsbury’s

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Extra Special

An iconic red from the Rhône valley, Châteauneuf-du-Pape has become synonymous with special occasions, and the reasonable price tag of this perfect bottle means you can treat yourself without being out of pocket. Rich, powerful and flavoursome, it’s excellent paired with a comfort-food classic, from warming stews to hearty roasts.

Buy now £16.00, Asda

Le Madeleine de Saint Mont, Plaimont

Whether beef tartare or roasted ham, Le Madeleine is a mouthwatering match, full of cherry flavours and spicy notes with aromas of ripe fruit and a silky, smooth texture. Only 4,000 bottles are made every year by winemaker Plaimont, which produces 98 per cent of the appellation, so this really is a sip to savour. Full, generous and oh-so refined.

Buy now £39.99, Gusto Wines

Domaine Lafage Maury Grenat 2020

Made from grapes grown in the heart of Roussillon, this natural sweet wine is intense and rich in style with a fresh and elegant finish, making it the perfect match to indulgent chocolate desserts and groaning cheese boards. Fruity and balanced, it’s perfect for rounding-out a meal, and comes in a sleek and sexy bottle for plonking in the centre of the table.

Buy now £14.75, Vinvm

Porte Noire Cru Classe Rosé

Launched in 2018 by actor Idris Elba – is there anything he can’t do? – and David Farber, founder of Connaught Cellars, Porte Noire is the Champagne and rosé brand to watch. Shining with elegance and finesse, this perfectly pale pink is made in a small coastal village in Provence, and comes with the ultimate bragging rights: Idris served it at his own wedding.

Buy now £42.00, Harvey Nichols

Anseillan Pauillac 2018

Some bottles simply deserve the spotlight, and such is the case with this impressive blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Hailing from Château Lafite Rothschild – the third wine to have left the building, no less – it’s spent 18 months in oak barrels and boasts characterful flavours of cherries and dark berry fruits. Voluminous but well-balanced, it’s a bottle worth bragging about.

Buy now £65.00, Harvey Nichols

Maison Bruno Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

Lime, grapefruit and white blossom with a touch of almond and toast? You certainly get what you pay for in a bottle of elegant Bruno Paillard Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs. What’s more, it’s made from 100% Chardonnay grapes sourced exclusively from grand cru vineyards, while its bubbles are fine, silky and creamy and its finish is fresh and long. A centrepiece for a celebratory table.

Buy now £74.96, The Whisky Exchange

Domaine de Sainte Rosé ‘Le Pinacle’ Syrah 2018, Languedoc

A blend of Syrah with a dash of Viognier, this is a Côte Rôtie-style red at a fraction of the usual price, complete with notes of black fruits, coffee and dark chocolate. Flavour-wise, you’re in for a treat – big, expressive and intense – while plum jam and strong liquorice dance on the nose.

Buy now £14.99, Majestic

Louis Jadot Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent 2019

Rich and succulent, this bottle hails from one of the most prestigious wineries in Beaujolais, and is a fresh and fruity red made from Gamay grapes. Whether enjoyed with chicken or pork, it makes for seriously easy-drinking, while being earthy and light-bodied to boot. A fine example of the region.

Buy now £16.00, Sainsbury's

Touraine-Oisly 2020 Sauvignon Blanc

Crisp and oh-so fresh, this Sauvvy B from the Loire is loaded with flavours of green apple, meaning a refreshing and elegant sip in every glass. It’s similar to a Sancerre, albeit much better value, with great acidity that makes it an a-list accompaniment to food or cheese.

Buy now £13.95, Mouse & Grape

B de Bonhoste, Crémant de Bordeaux

Billed as a celebratory all-rounder – perfect for Christmas parties or simply just because – this crémant is a real corker. Refined and silky, it’s gloriously golden and toasty in colour, and comes from a close-knit brother-and-sister-operated winery in Bordeaux. Flavour-wise, apple, pear, pineapple and nuts combine to create an extremely versatile fizz, making it just as good as a sparkling aperitif as it is a dessert accompaniment.

Buy now £17.00, Hourlier Wines

Domaine du Vieux Télégraph Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2016

A classy vintage, this 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all cherry compote, raspberry jam, rose petals, musky spices and dried herbs on the palate, with a nose of crushed stones and black tea. Full flavoured without being overly heavy, it’s a bright and energetic treat to go with perfectly pink beef. We suggest dinner à deux to enjoy the lion’s share.

Buy now £65.00, Harvey Nichols

Météore Leonides Organic Blanc 2019

Interesting name, interesting story: Domaine de Météore is named after the two-hundred-metre-wide meteor crater that lies at the heart of this region where the vineyard sits at an altitude of over 300 metres. Golden in colour and bright in taste, this rich white is made from a combo of Vermentino, Roussane and Viognier grapes, resulting in notes of cedar and flavours of pineapple and pear. Irresistibly quaffable.

Buy now £15.50, Delivered Drinks

Pomerol NV, Bordeaux

Fun fact: the hush-hush buyers at wine merchant Justerini & Brooks have signed the Official Secrets Act 1911 to protect the identity of this Pomerol. All that’s known is the wine – a classic and crowd-pleasing Bordeaux – comes from two of the leading estates in the prolific appellation. What we do know is that a heavenly mouthful fills the palate with an explosion of sweet berry fruit, flowers and kirsch while perfume lingers on the nose long after that first slurp. No wonder they keep it a secret.

Buy now £25.68, Justerinis

Réserve des Fustiers Gigondas

Youthful and rich with hints of spice and pepper, this bottle packs one hell of a punch for such a Lidl price (sorry, we couldn’t help ourselves), complete with evocative plum aromas and a bold finish. A match for steaks, pies and other hearty dishes.

Buy now £13.99, Lidl

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