A good set of eyebrows can make a face.
Readers of a certain vintage may remember the late Labour leader Lord Denis Healey, if not for his policies then certainly for his wonderfully wild and unruly forehead caterpillars.
More recently, former chancellor Alistair Darling is instantly recognisable - even in a face mask - thanks to his jet-black brows contrasting against snow-white hair.
Big eyebrow energy abounds across industries, most notably in pop culture. Makes sense; these are the faces we’re exposed to the most. Cara Delevingne, Liza Minnelli, Frida Kahlo, and Marilyn Monroe: all are almost as famous for their eyebrows as they are for their respective talents.
Whether thick or thin, a shapely set of eyebrows has transformative power. Tweezing or threading arches bring more light into the area, making eyes appear brighter. Full-bodied brows also tend to make women look younger, while thin sparse lines will, sadly, have the opposite effect.
Brow shaping should follow the face’s natural structure to achieve the best results. According to Fides Baldesburger, owner of Rubis Tweezers, this means spending time ‘brow mapping’ first - that is, figuring out the exact angles and structure to follow before even reaching for a pair of tweezers.
How to brow map at home, according to an expert
- “This process involves identifying key points of the face to ensure symmetry and proportion,” Baldesburger reveals. “Hold a straight tool, such as an eyebrow pencil, vertically against the side of your nose. The point where the pencil meets your brow is where your eyebrow should ideally start.
- Angle the pencil from the side of your nose through the centre of your iris. The highest point of the arch should be where the pencil crosses your brow.
- Place the pencil against the side of your nose and angle it to the outer corner of your eye. The point where the pencil meets the brow is where it should ideally end.
- Simply mark these key points and connect them with a light outline to create a guide for plucking.”
It sounds simple but if you’re dealing with scorched earth from overplucking, an eyebrow pen can help fill in the gaps. They come in all kinds of styles, from waxed pencils that can be brushed in with a spoolie to give an airbrushed effect to microblading pens with fine tips that mimic the look of genuine hair.
There’s a world of pens to browse, but if you haven’t got the time or don’t know quite where to start, we’ve drawn up an edit of our trusty favourites below.
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Victoria Beckham BabyBlade Microfine Brow Pencil
This long-lasting fine-tipped pencil is perfect for creating natural-looking brows that will stay with you all day. The pencil, which sports a spoolie on one end, comes in light blonde and brown hues mainly but there is a charcoal dark colour to suit those with very dark hair.
Buy now £32.00, Victoria Beckham
Brow Blink Bar eyebrow pen
The brow expert has a line of products for building brows back to health. For buildable colour, we like the triple-nibbed eyebrow pen which comes in two dark colours and offers up to 20 hours of smudge-free results.
Buy now £23.00, Brow Blink Bar
Urban Decay Brow Blade Pencil
Choose from six shades of Urban Decay's brow pencil, with a palette better suited to dark hair types. The dual-ended tool has a pencil on one end and an ink-stain felt tip on the other, helping you to create microblade-like results. Vegan-friendly.
Buy now £18.00, lookfantastic
Tom Ford Brow Sculptor (Various Shades)
To create brow masterpieces, you first need the right tools. Enter Tom Ford's brow sculptor, an angled pen that can make sharp lines and broad strokes at the subtle twist of a wrist. Available in two chocolatey shades, the twist-up pen boasts a spoolie brush on one end to blend out harsh lines so you're left with natural-looking brows.
Buy now £48.00, lookfantastic
SUQQU Framing Eyebrow Liquid Pen
Hailing from Japan, SUQQU's M.O. is all about natural yet polished beauty. In brows, it achieves this with its liquid pen, full of high pigment colour yet incredibly, a light-as-air texture. The fine nib leaves whisper-like strokes which can be blended for a fuller effect. Choose from four dark shades.
Buy now £23.00, Cult Beauty
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Pen
Build overplucked brows back up to full strength with pro make-up artist favourite, Anastasia Beverly Hills. The brand’s brow pen features a fine tip that allows you to create super thin strokes to resemble real hair. If you’re lacking in the brow-front from the off.
Long-wearing and waterproof, your brows should last until you apply cleanser at the end of your day to remove them. Available in nine shades, from blonde to granite.
Honourable mention also to the brand’s Brow Wiz retractable pencil that comes with a spoolie fixed to the end for easy brushing (£23).
Buy now £23.00, Boots
Revolution Pro Microblading Precision Eyebrow Pencil 0.04g
Proving that you don't have to spend oodles to achieve quiet luxury brows, Revolution's ultra-fine pencil gets you brows to shout about.
The needle-like point, which doesn't need sharpening, helps to create fine lines which you can use to fill in between sparse bits as well as reshape the outline of your brows. If you're after a statement brow, seal the lines with setting spray; those who want a natural look should brush the creamy formula through with the attached spoolie to soften but keep depth.
Available in four shades.
Buy now £3.74, lookfantastic
Ciaté London Microblade Effect Pen
Get the microbladed look without the pain or the treatment time thanks to Ciate. The beauty brand has devised this nifty - and nibby - brush that paints thin strokes that are the spit of real hair. The formula is long-lasting to quell any smear fears while the thin pen allows you to deliver precise strokes. You'll be raising your expertly arched brows in no time.
Buy now £11.20, lookfantastic
Charlotte Tilbury Brow Lift Super Model Brow
Available in five shades from blonde to black, beauty queen Charlotte Tilbury’s brow pencil could be your first step to bringing unruly brows back into line.
The angled pencil makes it simple to fill in gaps using short, regular strokes (remember it’s easier to build up slowly than going too hard and having to start from scratch) to imitate natural hair. Finish by combing through your brows with a clean spoolie and seal with clear gel if the weather is really warm but rest assured this has plenty of staying power as is.
Buy now £25.00, Charlotte Tilbury
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Definer Deluxe
Give ABH a round of applause for the sheer colour choice in its brow definer: there are a dozen to choose from, including two shades of grey and a caramel option that will suit blondes. This pen gives calligraphy vibes, allowing you to trace thin lines as well as make high-volume strokes when you need curves in a hurry. Twist the Definer to different points and angles to nail the brow look you’re going for.
Buy now £13.00, Cult Beauty
