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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Jay Rayner

Beckford Bottle Shop, Bath: ‘Somewhere to quiet all the bad thoughts’ – restaurant review

Beckford Bottle Shop, Bath, dining room
Vintage atmosphere: the dining room. Photograph: Karen Robinson/The Observer

Beckford Bottle Shop, 5-8 Saville Row, Bath BA1 2QP (01225 809 302; beckfordbottleshop.com). Snacks and small plates £3.75-£7, cheese and charcuterie sharing platters £13, desserts £3.50-£7.50, wines from £24

Anybody with a modicum of imagination dreams occasionally of another life. We find ourselves on a Greek island for a couple of weeks and quickly picture never leaving and becoming instead this sun-slapped, unshaven version of ourselves, forever squiffy on chilled glasses of something rough. Until we remember our addiction to flat whites, reliable broadband and that we actually like having our nose stuffed into the unwashed armpit of a stranger on the Northern Line during the morning commute. Or we wander the streets of Greenwich Village and decide that this is who we really are; that we should own a brownstone stoop and sit on it. If only it wasn’t for the health insurance thing, and the gun ownership thing.

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