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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Angela Giuffrida in Bari

Barricades in Bari: why the city’s ‘pasta grannies’ are under scrutiny

Woman is seen against a backdrop of packets of pasta
Nunzia Caputo, one of the women who make and sell pasta in front of their homes every day in Bari. Photograph: Roberto Salomone/The Guardian

Nunzia Caputo was five years old when her grandmother put a stop to her playing on the street outside their home in Bari and summoned her to help make orecchiette, the ear-shaped pasta believed to have originated in the southern Italian port city, to be sold to passersby.

“I used to go out to play every afternoon with my friend Giulia,” said Caputo, now 67. “But then, on a whim, my grandmother said I wasn’t allowed to do that any more. She told me: ‘From now on, you must learn how to make orecchiette.’ I started to cry.”

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