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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Travel
Doosie Morris

Bargain tickets and barebones carriages: the ins and outs of travelling Australia by train

Easy, affordable and elegant: a V/Line regional train in Victoria
Easy, affordable and elegant: a V/Line regional train in Victoria. Photograph: Public Transport Victoria

Rail voyages such as the Ghan, the India Pacific and Great Southern might capture the imagination with their multi-day, cross-continental passages but their golden tickets come with prices to match. For rail-lovers seeking a more humble way to hit the tracks, along the east coast at least, robust state networks offer a spectrum of long-distance options. From rail beds with in-seat on-demand entertainment to past-their-prime rattlers, Australia’s intercity trains are not for the faint of heart or time poor but their steel tentacles spread far and wide, unlocking regional gems and distance travel for those who crave that old-fashioned feeling.

Melbourne-Sydney-Brisbane

Australia’s best attempt at commuter-centric cross-border travel is the middle-aged workhorse the XPT, which connects Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane via 38 stations in between. For 43 years the intercity beasts have rattled up and down the south-east ferrying the brave, the bored and the broke.

While refurbishments of the trains’ interiors and air conditioning have given the journey a lift, the consensus is that, while functional, relatively comfy and affordable, the whole experience continues to leave a lot to be desired.

A-to-B journeys from Melbourne to Sydney or Sydney to Brisbane (or vice versa) come in at about $100 – about the same price as a low-range air fare for adults. The Sydney-to-Melbourne route runs twice daily each way; between Sydney and Brisbane there’s one direct service each way (note that New South Wales daylight savings affects Brisbane departure and arrival times).

A perhaps little-known quirk of the journey is because it’s operated by NSW TrainLink up to four children can ride for just $1 each with an adult from their household (don’t forget to tick the box at the bottom of the booking page); children under three travel free but they must have a reserved seat.

The downside is if you’re planning on tackling the Melbourne-Brisbane route, the journey will take you the best part of two days. If you take an overnight from Melbourne you’ll arrive at Brisbane’s Roma Street about 4am after an eight-hour layover in Sydney.

If you’re not schlepping it with the brood and want to make an adventure of it, the Discovery Pass – the country’s only hop-on hop-off Eurail-style deal available to NSW residents and international visitors – can turn a harrowing intercity commute into a tri-state gallivant. Passes start at $232 for unlimited travel on the NSW TrainLink network for 14 days, with one-, three- and six-month passes also available. All services need to be booked in advance but, if you harbour some unrequited vagabond tendencies, this is your best-value Australian ticket to raildog freedom.

Those aboard the XPT could be forgiven for thinking they have stepped back in time, and it’s not just the decor. Essentially a mobile Faraday cage, the trains have no way to charge phones or laptops, or to access wifi, even via cellular data; so bring a book and consider it a digital detox. Refreshments range from microwave meals to the long-haul train classic – scones and jam with a state beer. Don’t forget to bring some cash though, as Eftpos service isn’t reliable. There is no seating in the buffet car, so expect to enjoy your provisions at your own seat. While there, you probably won’t notice much difference between the first-class and economy options and that’s because they are all but identical – though in first class you’ll be treated to a few extra centimetres of leg room and an extra 12 degrees of recline, adding about $40 to the standard $99 fare from Melbourne to Sydney.

All things going to plan, the XPT fleet will be replaced in coming years with new Spanish-built trains – the first of which began testing in February 2025. Originally slated to be on the tracks in 2023, design squabbles and cost blowouts have resulted in years-long delays. Sleeper options have been dispensed with – but the new trains will at least have wifi and in-seat charging ports.

New South Wales/ACT

NSW TrainLink’s Xplorer trains service the bulk of the state’s regional network. At over 30 years old, they too have seen better days and are also due to be replaced with the new Spanish trains when they arrive. For now, their rattling charm fans out from Sydney on five lines to Armidale, Moree, Griffith, Broken Hill and Canberra. There are daily services to Armidale, Moree and Canberra, and pricing for all five lines fluctuates with peak seasons. Booking well in advance often means cheaper fares.

The $1 kids’ deal applies here, too, and pensioners can ride for just $2.50 a journey throughout the region, but only for travel booked a week or less in advance. Standard economy fares start from about $50, depending on the destination, and the journey can take from four hours to Canberra, to a 13-hour slog to Broken Hill.

Victoria

Victoria is the only state in the country that has managed to execute the concept of regional travel as it should be: easy, affordable and elegant. Designed for reliable and regular services, the purpose-built VLocity trains hit the tracks in 2005 and remain sleek, clean and comfortable enough to make it to the state’s edges without needing to book an osteo appointment when you disembark.

With daily capped statewide fares that extend to 60km beyond the border ($11.40 for an adult, $5.70 concession) a day trip on most of the 13 lines is usually only a matter of loading up your Myki, arriving at Southern Cross and choosing your own adventure. Some of the further-flung destinations – like Albury and Swan Hill – still use older model locohaul trains and require a paper ticket or e-ticket but are still covered by the cap.

On some lines there is the option to reserve a seat, though passengers can otherwise travel in the unreserved carriages and try their luck with securing a seat.

All regional trains have bathrooms and free drinking water but only the Swan Hill and Albury lines feature a buffet car.

Queensland

Covering certainly the greatest distances, the Queensland regional network spans from tropical Cairns to the outback on five lines of varying luxury. The Spirit of Queensland, the state’s flagship distance train, departs from Brisbane four times a week for a 25-hour journey between the state capital and Cairns, and fares start from about $220. Economy seats aren’t lavish but, if you’re a veteran of international cattle-class flying, you’ll make it. The trains’ unique “rail beds”, on the other hand, convert a comfortable seat by day into a completely lie-down experience overnight, replete with in-seat entertainment, crisp linen and meals served on actual crockery included, all for an extra $150. The rail beds often sell out so it’s a good idea to book early.

Head 26 hours to Longreach from Brisbane from $140 for an economy seat, or for about $420 and you can indulge in a day sitter cum sleeper option. There are no TVs but meals are included and so is a shower. The 17- and 21-hour journeys to Charleville and Mount Isa don’t offer any sleeping options but the trains are fitted with lounge carts and the tea and coffee is free. The tilt train from Brisbane to Rockhampton via Bundaberg offers a business-class option and free – although patchy – wifi.

The rest of the country

Western Australia’s regional rail service has four lines, three of which unfurl from Perth to Kalgoorlie, Bunbury and Merredin, while the fourth typically runs between Midland and Northam (due to trackwork, from 3 January to 21 February 2026 the service travels between East Perth and Northam, and does not stop at Midland). Fares have been permanently slashed by 50% starting this month – making tickets between $4.65 and $69 one way – and a ticket on any of these services also entitles you to same-day free travel on all other regional and city services.

In South Australia all country services were discontinued in the 1990s but the trusty Overland, operated by Journey Beyond, will ferry you smoothly from Melbourne to Adelaide a couple of times a week via an 11-hour day service, with fares starting at $150 each way. Tasmania’s only intercity train succumbed in 1978 and, aside from the Ghan, the Northern Territory does not have its own distance rail network.

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