Antonin Tron's second collection for Balmain brought together references to the French house's early history and the designer's fascination with California in the 1960s and 1970s. Presented in Paris for Spring/Summer 2027, the collection continued Tron's examination of Balmain's archives while introducing a distinctly American set of cultural references.
The show took place at the Hôtel de Maisons, the former Paris home of Karl Lagerfeld. The setting was part of a deliberately atmospheric presentation: the windows were covered from the outside with opaque plastic sheeting, while water ran against the material as an extended Jim Morrison mix played, beginning with "Riders on the Storm." Vogue noted that, unlike the previous season, the lighting remained high enough for the clothes to be clearly seen.
Michel Foucault and the California Connection
One of the collection's key references was Michel Foucault's 1975 trip to California. Tron drew from Foucault in California, a book documenting the French philosopher's experience in the state, as he developed ideas for the collection.
The references extended into the music and visual language surrounding the show. Jim Morrison featured prominently in the soundtrack, while Vogue reported that Tron was also thinking about American desert psychedelia and figures including Joan Didion and Walter De Maria.
The clothes translated those references through a mixture of materials, prints and silhouettes. Vogue highlighted a look featuring laced cowhide pants with a purple eelskin topcoat and an ocelot jacquard shirt.
Elsewhere, the collection included loosened-girdle miniskirts, corset-built tops, ruched dresses and draped jersey. Satin bombers were worn with exposed bras, while low-rise trousers, soft-shouldered tailoring and evening dresses with asymmetric folds added further variations to the collection's wardrobe.
Balmain's 1940s Archive Returns
Alongside the California references, Tron continued his research into Balmain's early years. Vogue reported that the designer had been studying colorized backstage photographs from the house's shows in the 1940s, extending the archival research that informed his first Balmain collection.
The collection also drew from the ideas of French writer and philosopher Roger Caillois, whose interest in naturally occurring forms informed the colors, embroideries and surfaces. A mineral-patterned wedge heel was one of the more direct expressions of that reference.
Animal-inspired motifs appeared throughout the collection, while the construction of several pieces emphasized draping and layered surfaces. Vogue reported that some of the jacquards were printed and then re-embroidered, creating additional depth in the fabrics.
One of the more elaborate treatments was described as a "toxic fish" design, combining sequins, overprinting and hand embroidery. Later looks continued the emphasis on animalier patterns, embroidery and crystal embellishment.
Antonin Tron's Second Balmain Collection
The Spring 2027 presentation follows Tron's appointment as Balmain's creative director in November 2025, when he succeeded Olivier Rousteing. Before joining Balmain, Tron founded the Paris-based label Atlein, which Vogue has described as being known for artisanal draping and the manipulation of jersey.
His first Balmain collection, presented in March 2026, also looked closely at the house's history. Vogue reported at the time that Tron had been studying Pierre Balmain's work from the 1940s, including archival dresses from 1946, as he developed his approach to the house.
For Spring 2027, that archival research remained visible, but the collection expanded its references beyond Paris. Balmain's early history appeared alongside Tron's exploration of California, desert landscapes, American cultural figures and nature-inspired forms, all expressed through the clothes, accessories and textiles presented at the Hôtel de Maisons.
