The view across to Frontone Beach
(Picture: ES Magazine / Kate Lough )The hydrofoil swerved neatly into the crescent harbour, where sherbet fishermen’s houses line the waterfront, fringed by sheer hillsides. It only took a moment to see why Odysseus, on his epic journey home, was so seduced by the banished sorceress Circe and her island, Ponza.
Sublimely low-key, it feels stuck in time, with a slow pace that the Ponseze have no desire to ruffle with five-star hotels or chichi beach clubs. It’s no wonder Romans want to keep it to themselves. Arriving from the Italian capital, we were scooped up by Fonzi, one of the few taxi drivers, and whisked a short distance to our island home. The best address on Ponza, Casa Fontana’s white and cubist exterior — bringing to mind the Greek Cyclades — hides an eclectic interior dressed in blues and filled with treasures.
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