Growing up, rituals were a big part of her “orthodox” family, says Bengali-American food historian and author Chitrita Banerji. “I instinctively incorporated them in my perceptions about food as I grew up.”

Banerji’s food journey has spanned decades and continents, ever since she started researching the history of Bengali food and culture for Life and Food in Bengal, published in 1991 (now available as Bengali Cooking: Seasons and Festivals). The book gives a heady whiff of every season, and the festivals and food it embraces.